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Routes in 5. Slabs
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Blockade Direct ? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Weissners Butress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Wag, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fleabitten (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 PG13 |
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Indented Slab (a "Mid-Cliff" Slab), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Weissners Dike T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Beware of the Dog (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Micron T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Falling Aspirations T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Snooky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Odyssey of an Artichoke T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Consolation Prize T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Condescender T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Condescending (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Stretched On Your Grave TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Cirrus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slip o' Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lima Bean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lakeview T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Howard Peterson & Dave Tibbetts, July 1977. Second pitch added by Jeff Burns & Steve Schneider. |
| Page Views: | 4,507 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | David Aguasca! on Jun 17, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Access Issue: You may come across small, silver sensors that are part of a research project on weathering on Cannon. Please do not disturb them. Thanks ! More details can be found at mountainproject.com/forum/t…
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Description
The sustained, tenuous friction climbing on this one will leave your noggin tired, if nothing else. The rock is superb, and the crux is well-protected. I put the R rating for the runout up top, where the rock quality is a bit poorer and the protection scarce, but the climbing is easier, maybe 5.9 or so.
Hard friction takes you straight off the ground to the first bolt, which you'll pass diagonalling right to the sloping horizontal ramp. Clip the next bolt, traverse right to the end of the ramp, and figure out how to use the few holds you have to make it straight up to a stance at the third bolt, just up and left. From there you can traverse left to the right leaning flake system which offers a bit of protection.
Continue up and left, pretty far above the last piece of pro you have...once you've mantled onto the more secure ground of the left facing flake, you can scamper up to an alcove where you can set up a belay with a bolt and two horns.
Hard friction takes you straight off the ground to the first bolt, which you'll pass diagonalling right to the sloping horizontal ramp. Clip the next bolt, traverse right to the end of the ramp, and figure out how to use the few holds you have to make it straight up to a stance at the third bolt, just up and left. From there you can traverse left to the right leaning flake system which offers a bit of protection.
Continue up and left, pretty far above the last piece of pro you have...once you've mantled onto the more secure ground of the left facing flake, you can scamper up to an alcove where you can set up a belay with a bolt and two horns.
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