Rough around the Edges
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.7 from 17 votes
Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | JJ Schlick 2008 |
Page Views: | 2,290 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | JJ Schlick on Jun 15, 2009 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Rough around the Edges is a clever and colorful pitch which packs a lot of moderate climbing into its 5.11 grade. Though often overlooked, this pitch offers a great intro into the often shape shifting angles of the Main Amphitheater with cool steep climbing at the top with plenty of open air.
Starts in the middle of the amphitheater and is the first line to the left of the black section of the cliff. Start right of squatty pillar, working your way up to a lone bolt below a short finger crack with black rock on the right. A 5.9+ move leads you to the break.
From the break move up right into low angle dihedral and a 5.8 hand crack. This dihedral will eventually get steep while the crack tightens down and the difficulties begin. Boulder past 3 bolts on positive edges and sweet pockets, one of which is a sinker mono at the final hard moves which guard the anchor. A large wire will offer some comfort on the finishing sequence.
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