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Routes in The Comp Wall
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Companeros T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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La Vida T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Natural Grooves T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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No Competition S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Question of Balance S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Red Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shake 'n' Flake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shop and Compare T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Splitter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Straight outta Compton T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Women's Semi-Qualifier S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 260 ft (79 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Hannah North |
| Page Views: | 8,011 total · 42/month |
| Shared By: | Guy H. on Jun 14, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP
Details
(1) The BLM has amended the Cassia Resource Management Plan (RMP) to permanently close the 400 acres of land it manages in the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area to staging, traditional rock climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, as well as overnight camping and development of new trails. Here is a link to a map that shows the BLM land in yellow. parksandrecreation.idaho.go…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
Description
This is a great journey through steep patina plates, cracks, and edges.
P1: Follow the ramp to the left of the Splitter crack. Use a finger/hand crack (gear) to reach the first bolt. Angle back right to reach the steep juggy face above.
P2: Continue up the wall with more steep climbing to belay on a good ledge. A small wire could be placed after the last bolt, but it is easier here.
P3: Angle left to hit the arete for the final bolted pitch.
I highly recommend linking P1 and P2 with a 70M rope. A 60M rope would also probably work. You will need to back clean a couple clips and use long runners on a few key bolts to reduce drag, though.
P1: Follow the ramp to the left of the Splitter crack. Use a finger/hand crack (gear) to reach the first bolt. Angle back right to reach the steep juggy face above.
P2: Continue up the wall with more steep climbing to belay on a good ledge. A small wire could be placed after the last bolt, but it is easier here.
P3: Angle left to hit the arete for the final bolted pitch.
I highly recommend linking P1 and P2 with a 70M rope. A 60M rope would also probably work. You will need to back clean a couple clips and use long runners on a few key bolts to reduce drag, though.
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