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I Scare Myself

5.11b R, Trad, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 11 votes
FA: Dave Dangle, Rich Aschert, Darryl Roth, 1988
Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Rd > Dark Side

Description

I Scare Myself is an excellent, sustained pocket route that is unfortunately marred by a heinous runout to the first bolt.

Begin up a vegitated ledge, then up to a shallow right-facing corner, that fades into another shallow, right-facing corner up & left. It would be possible to place some sketchy finger-sized gear in either of these corners. Punch up over a slight bulge on incut shallow pockets past the first bolt. Long reaches between good pockets with sparse feet lead to slabbier climbing and a diagonaling crack. It's possible to avoid the crack to extend the excellent pocket section by staying right on the bolt line, but this is a bit contrived.

Location

The next route right of "Teenage Wristband". Immediately left of "Kinesthesia".

Protection

3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The first bolt is ~30 feet up, and can't be reached with a stick clip. Finger-sized gear can be placed in the opening corner, which would make the route G-rated if the gear were solid (?).

Another option is to climb Kinesthesia first, and clip the rope into the first bolt of I Scare Myself while lowering. Yet another option would be to stick clip the first bolt of Kinesthesia.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A view from the base.
[Hide Photo] A view from the base.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

slim

  5.11b R
[Hide Comment] The hardware on this route is in poor shape, and the bolts are way to the right of the natural climbing. If the hardware and locations were modernized, this would be a popular route. The actual climbing on it is very good. Jun 3, 2013
Nate Liles
Lander, WY
[Hide Comment] Original bolts + anchor replaced with 1/2" SS in 2018. Tools provided by The Access Fund, all hardware courtesy of the ASCA. Consider a donation @ safeclimbing.org. Jun 28, 2018
Eddie Purcell
A Crag Near You
 
[Hide Comment] A great rig. And a good warm-up for its little more stout neighbor to the right. I didn’t find it to be runout at all. Everything is there to clip the first two bolts safely! Dooo it! Oct 11, 2020
Clay G
 
[Hide Comment] It appears that a bolt has been added down low since the description was written, though clipping the 2nd bolt is considerably spicier if you can't reach it while standing on the small ledge. The climbing on this route is great, sequential pocket pulling on some sweet (though sharp!) holds. Sep 27, 2021