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California
> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley N Side
> D. Camp 4 Area
> 2. Lower Brother
Absolutely Free, Center
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.4 from 225
votes
Routes in 2. Lower Brother
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Make a Wish Arete S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Dust in the Wind T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Absolutely Tree Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Maple Jam T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Positively 4th Street T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nutty Buddy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Absolutely Free Left Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Absolutely Free, Center T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Absolutely Free, Right Side T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hawkman's Escape T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Sheldon Smith, Mark Klemens and Rick Sylvester, August 1970 |
| Page Views: | 17,023 total · 88/month |
| Shared By: | Eric Sorenson on Jun 3, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Characterized by a difficult approach and longish descent with three great pitches of roped climbing this climb is an off the beaten track, classic Yosemite adventure climb. Approach by walking up and right from the toe of Lower Brother, taking a left at the first major ramp system. From here 250 feet of scrambling (some 4th or maybe easy 5th) will take you to the base of the route.
P1: Two options, a 5.7 exciting chimney or a 5.9 flake, we took the chimney and weren't disappointed. Belay at the highest ledge at the base of a perfect thin hands splitter.
P2: Climb the excellent splitter. Pass an old bolt casing (optional belay) and continue up the left facing corner. Lots of hands to off hands with an awkward bulge/horn to pass on this part of the pitch. Belay at a nice ledge with trees after 175 feet.
P3: Again a couple options; we continued up the most logical line, the groove to OW corner. The intimidating OW above isn't too bad with lieback techniques and a 5" piece. Continue with the chimney above and belay on another comfortable ledge.
P1: Two options, a 5.7 exciting chimney or a 5.9 flake, we took the chimney and weren't disappointed. Belay at the highest ledge at the base of a perfect thin hands splitter.
P2: Climb the excellent splitter. Pass an old bolt casing (optional belay) and continue up the left facing corner. Lots of hands to off hands with an awkward bulge/horn to pass on this part of the pitch. Belay at a nice ledge with trees after 175 feet.
P3: Again a couple options; we continued up the most logical line, the groove to OW corner. The intimidating OW above isn't too bad with lieback techniques and a 5" piece. Continue with the chimney above and belay on another comfortable ledge.
Location
To descend, first climb up another 200-300 feet (some 4th or easy 5th class) to the base of the upper headwall, then descend climber's left down Michael's Ledge. There isn't much of a trail and almost no cairns, so use your best judgement as for when to get off the ledges. Its best not to leave anything at the base as the descent doesn't take you anywhere near the start of the climb.
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