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Odell's Gully
WI2-3 Mod. Snow,
Ice, Snow, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m),
Avg: 2.9 from 102
votes
FA: Noel Odell, Lincoln O'Brien, , J.C Hurd, and Robert Underhill March 16, 1928
New Hampshire
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Description
This is the classic wide open gully to the left of the Pinnacle Buttress. Noel Odell was, of course, the last person to see George Mallory alive.
After an initial easy section, you can choose a number of variations, all relatively moderate. [Although "Odell's Right" can develop short vertical sections and pre-1969, i.e. pre-drooped axes, was considered one of the hardest ice pitches in New England, technically harder than Pinnacle]. These generally lead to much easier ground just below the Alpine Gardens. It is worth noting that due to the ample low-angle snow slope above the climb, Odell's is particularly vulnerable to avalanche danger. Be very careful in assessing conditions and pay attention to the USFS forecasts.
A number of serious accidents/episodes have occurred with regard to this moderate climb the most famous of which was the 1982 Hugh Herr/Jeff Batzer rescue. Odell's was the last ice climb I did in New Hampshire and thoughts of others' previous mishaps plagued what should have been a relatively mellow solo climb, especially when the wet heavy snow thumped and subsided as I kicked my way up the final stretch of the gully. Be careful up here.
Location
Easily located just left of the Pinnacle Buttress. Descend by heading south across the Alpine Gardens towards Lion's Head or more quickly east down the Escape Hatch. Make sure that you have a good sense of direction and a compass if the weather deteriorates.
[Hide Photo] "T minus 1 year and counting" Feb, 1968 Reed Markley chops steps in Odell's about 1 year before Chouinard would introduce his drooped pick axe. Note the long axe. In 1968 an ascent of Odell's woul…
[Hide Photo] Photo by Brett Sampson. Looking back on the first roped pitch.
[Hide Photo] Jeff Gerner coming up the snowfield just above the ice step. Photo by Brett Sampson.
[Hide Photo] Late-fall conditions. Photo by AWinters
[Hide Photo] Beginning of snow field up to Odell's gully
[Hide Photo] Blasting off up the WI2 line - first roped pitch.
[Hide Photo] Odell's Right - prior to drooped pick axes and rigid crampons, this contained the most technical ice in the NorthEast. To climb the vertical steps you had to cut deep, indented handholds to hold on…
[Hide Comment] Actually, the Hugh Herr “episode” occurred after their successful climb of Odell’s. In whiteout conditions they lost their way in the Alpine Garden and dropped into the Great Gulf. There, they were ( for being lost) correctly following the stream/trail downhill, which would have eventually brought them to Rt 16. But when the saw the trail sign to AMC’s Madison hut they took that trail up. Hugh’s feet got soaked in one stream crossing, and that contributed to the degree of frostbite. Bring a compass and map and know at least the approximate bearing from the top of your climb towards Lion’s Head, or at least Tuckerman’s.
Nov 16, 2020
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North Conway, NH
Bring a compass and map and know at least the approximate bearing from the top of your climb towards Lion’s Head, or at least Tuckerman’s. Nov 16, 2020