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The Faux Pas Arete
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.6 from 20
votes
Routes in The Prow Area
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Women in Love T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Recompense T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Faux Pas Arete, The T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gypsy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Beast Flake, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Another Pretty Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Prow, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Liquid Sky T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Edge of the World S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Worm Drive S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Peanut Gallery Flake T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | John Bouchard, John Burke. Spring 1984 |
| Page Views: | 5,550 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Knower on Jun 1, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
The Faux Pas Arete is the clean-cut white corner to the right of Recompense's top pitch. Since the granite is a striking shade of white, it is easily seen from the road below.
The route is very convenient to TR. Simply set a belay where Recompense ends and lower your climber to the obvious mini-ledge. From this ledge, climb right to the corner, and delicately smear, slap, and finesse your way to the top.
To lead, rappel to the ledge, set a belay in the Recompense corner and give your climber a vote of confidence as he smears, slaps, and finesses his way to the top. It's bolted, but this pitch is certainly not a sport route. The distance from the first to the second bolt is unnerving.
The route is very convenient to TR. Simply set a belay where Recompense ends and lower your climber to the obvious mini-ledge. From this ledge, climb right to the corner, and delicately smear, slap, and finesse your way to the top.
To lead, rappel to the ledge, set a belay in the Recompense corner and give your climber a vote of confidence as he smears, slaps, and finesses his way to the top. It's bolted, but this pitch is certainly not a sport route. The distance from the first to the second bolt is unnerving.
Access
The best way to access this route is from the top. Locate the exposed ledge where Recompense tops out. This ledge is about 50 feet below the tourist overlook and is accessed by a walk around to the right (south) and under the overlook via a worn trail.
It's also possible to access this route by climbing Recompense and diverging from the big corner at the obvious foothold/ledge that marks the start of the Faux Pas Arete. This approach would require leading the pitch, which is a somewhat scary proposition.
It's also possible to access this route by climbing Recompense and diverging from the big corner at the obvious foothold/ledge that marks the start of the Faux Pas Arete. This approach would require leading the pitch, which is a somewhat scary proposition.
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