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Routes in Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
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Anniversary Waltz T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bogosity (Link-up) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Brrright Star T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Coffee Achievers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Disputed, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dynamo Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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El, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flying Squirrels T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Great Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hidden Constellation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Lonely, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pete's Farewell T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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PF Flyers T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Raging Raven S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rain Dogs TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V1 5 |
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Roaches on the Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rock and Roll Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Run Higher, Jump Faster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Running of the Bulls T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Star Sailor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wald-Calder Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Walking the Tightrope S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Grant Calder, John Wald, July 1976 |
| Page Views: | 13,870 total · 74/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Duca on May 31, 2009 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
A great line up the cliff, using a series of horizontal and vertical cracks. Stonker pro, and wonderful, airy positioning make this route a classic among classics!
P1: 5.2 (This route uses the same first pitch as Pete's Farewell.) 40' (small gear belay)
P2: 5.7 Traverse left across the face using a positive horizontal. At the large right-facing corner, traverse left to the arete, where there is a small overlap. Move around the arete, and continue across the positive horizontal until it ends on a small ledge/Semi-hanging belay below a clean, vertical crack. 70' (gear belay in vertical crack)
P3: Take the plum line up the crack and into the steepening, left-facing corner. Move around the small overhang using the crack, and continue to the top via lower angle slab climbing. 80' (gear belay)
Descent: Climb down (easy 4th class) into the massive chimney, and aim for the far right end of the chimney that has a chain anchor. It is a good idea to belay your leader down to this anchor, as the last few moves to the anchor are exposed. Rappel with one 60m rope.
P1: 5.2 (This route uses the same first pitch as Pete's Farewell.) 40' (small gear belay)
P2: 5.7 Traverse left across the face using a positive horizontal. At the large right-facing corner, traverse left to the arete, where there is a small overlap. Move around the arete, and continue across the positive horizontal until it ends on a small ledge/Semi-hanging belay below a clean, vertical crack. 70' (gear belay in vertical crack)
P3: Take the plum line up the crack and into the steepening, left-facing corner. Move around the small overhang using the crack, and continue to the top via lower angle slab climbing. 80' (gear belay)
Descent: Climb down (easy 4th class) into the massive chimney, and aim for the far right end of the chimney that has a chain anchor. It is a good idea to belay your leader down to this anchor, as the last few moves to the anchor are exposed. Rappel with one 60m rope.
Photos
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