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Routes in Rabbit Rock - Southwest
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Spuds in the Gym S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Go Spud Go! S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Seasonal Employment T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sudden Pleasure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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No Satisfaction T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Redtail S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Roughleg T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Hyperspuds T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Dan Sperlock 1980's |
| Page Views: | 975 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Past User on May 19, 2009 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
This is a challenging and worthy route!
Crux comes just below the top, where you have two option: tweak your fingers into flared blue tcu sized jams or slap out to the arete just left of the crack for an exciting and athletic finish. Of course, those with large digits only have the later option. You don't really need tape, as Binghams guide suggests- its not that rough. This thing feels a hell of a lot longer than 40 feet after you've climbed it!
Crux comes just below the top, where you have two option: tweak your fingers into flared blue tcu sized jams or slap out to the arete just left of the crack for an exciting and athletic finish. Of course, those with large digits only have the later option. You don't really need tape, as Binghams guide suggests- its not that rough. This thing feels a hell of a lot longer than 40 feet after you've climbed it!
Protection
cams- at least a full run- blue tcu's to a big hand piece. Also bring a lot of extra draws to finish on Redtail (or Seasonal employment, though less desireable because its anchor is so far out left). Roughleg has no anchor, but could use one. A 70 meter rope is required to lower off of Redtail
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