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The Bottom Line
5.10b,
Sport,
Avg: 2.4 from 17
votes
FA: Glen Schuler, 1989
Colorado
> San Luis Valley
> Rock Garden
Access Issue: ACCESS ISSUE* - PULLOUT PARKING CLOSURE
Details
Per
A Lee: *ACCESS ISSUE* - PULLOUT PARKING CLOSURE
The parking lot off Hwy 41G used to be the established point of access to the main canyon, but it is now closed. On 5/31/2020, an access issue arose due to the lot being overcrowded with ~7 vehicles. Saguache County Sheriff was called by the landowners, and the climbers were asked to leave the canyon. Climbers should park at the Penitente Main Canyon and hike in, or park at the established BLM parking lot 1 mile West on 41G and hike the road.
The SLV Climbers Alliance, with support from the Access Fund, is navigating this access issue. Contact slvclimb.org for questions or status reports, or join the Facebook Group "San Luis Valley Climbers Alliance" for the latest updates.
Description
The crux may be getting off the ground, but the whole route is thin, sustained, and fun.
Location
This the steep slab/face to the left of
Team Geritol (Genital). A couple huecos and lots of small crimps lead you up the bolt line. Could be painful if you blow the 2nd clip. It's possible to "cheat" by moving out right of the little depression to a flake, but straight up the bolt line is "all there".
Protection
6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.
![This is it, feels 10a or b. The route just left is harder. Both good routes.]()
[Hide Photo] This is it, feels 10a or b. The route just left is harder. Both good routes.
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CO
Boulder, CO