PRINT: Rock Climb Snakes In The Grass, San Diego County

Snakes In The Grass

5.10a, Sport, 160 ft (48 m),

Avg: 2.5 from 17 votes
FA: Brian Spiewak
California > San Diego County > S San Diego County > El Cajon Mountain > Wedge > Left Wall

Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Advisory Details

Please avoid raptor nests. El Cajon Mountain- Golden Eagles nested successfully at this site in 2009, after relocating twice between alternate nest sites. The Golden Eagle nest at El Cajon Mountain was not successful in Spring 2010. This nest was successful and fledged young in 2011 - 2021. Details from USFS posted here: fs.usda.gov/detail/clevelan…

The El Cajon Mountain climbing area is in close proximity to the San Diego River Park Foundation property. This property's purpose is to protect and conserve San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife in perpetuity. Specifically, the San Diego River Park Foundation are protecting golden eagles that nest in the area and ceanothus, a California lilac that is an endemic sensitive plant species. Please avoid and limit recreational activities at the San Diego River Park Foundation property to promote San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife. Thank you!

Description

Start by heading up the open slab. The San Diego County Climbing guide shows a 5.10 crux on this slab. NOT! A few moves of 5.8+, nothing harder there. Continue up to a large flake (pro to .25 to .75') then head to the 4th bolt. Steeper terrain awaits as you move past bolt #5. Balance, edge and crank up past bolt #6 (the .10a crux). Once past bolt #6, face climb to the right, along the upper edge of a slanting slab. Head to the anchor that is located at the top of the slab. Best option is to set the anchor on the slab and belay from the anchor bolts (rings) 8' to the right. Best rappel is from the anchor with rings (the same anchor for pitch #2 of 'Pause For Cause'). Two raps makes it back to terra firma.

*Special Note*

Be aware that this route sits under the big roofs above (a source of water runoff). So be prepared to encounter some slick sections of rock in the steeper sections. Also, the SDC guidebook posts a "One star" rating for this route. Certainly better than that, in this page authors opinion.

Location

Located approximately 100 feet left of the Leonids Wall and approximately 30 feet right of a broken right facing dihedral. A clean orange slab with three bolts leading up to higher ground marks 'Snakes In The Grass'.

Protection

- 9 draws (for bolts)
- .25 to .75" (Aliens and Camelot Jr.'s work fine)
- a few 2' slings and biners for the trad pro

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Chris H leading Snakes in the Grass.

Climber in the center of the photo on Snakes in the Grass.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kellen Holt

I did this route today. Maybe I missed some key holds, but I did feel parts of the slab borderlined on 5.10 (I somewhat remember the part past the second bolt to be a bit tricky). The two bulges above felt like the cruxes. Overall a good route for a 5.10 climber. Every time it felt like it was going to get tough, a key hold would appear that helps you pull through. Also, long slings are somewhat helpful at the top of the route to avoid rope drag, but not necessary. Mar 4, 2012

bspiewak

There is now a two bolt rap/lower off anchor at 100'.
You can still climb to the anchor above if you want to. Nov 5, 2013