PRINT: Rock Climb The Eagle's Gift, -Clifton Crags

The Eagle's Gift

5.10a, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),

Avg: 3.5 from 39 votes
FA: WS, JB 7/91
Maine > -Clifton Crags > Eagle Bluff > 05. The Roofs

Description

An awesome route with thin slab/face climbing plus a small roof.
Start up a slab trending slightly left past bolts and some small ledges to base of roof. Pull over the roof to an alcove and move right to an airy bolt anchor around corner. 165' of rope will just get you back to the ground.

Location

After Crankenstein below the huge roof.

Protection

A bolted route. If you are timid bring a .75 camalot to protect a runout below the roof.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lam pulling cruxy overhanging portion of Eagle's Gift

Crux Roof of Eagle's Gift

Full route starts right of where the rope is hanging I believe. The rope is hanging over crankenstein because I was doing a funky traverse from bivy route all the way over.

Wendy atop Eagle's Gift

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

afh Horovitz
Portland, OR

5.9

Pretty uneventful climbing up until the roof, then pure glory. I don't know about 5.9+, no way near as hard as wheaties. Dec 8, 2009

Dom Caron
Welsford, New Brunswick Canada

5.9+

Depends on your style...I thought Weathies was easier Sep 10, 2010

Jeffory Luce
Manchester, Maine

Depends whether you get the hand jam at the crux or not imo. It's easy with the hand jam, quite hard and long moves without! Jul 19, 2012

nealg

Great route; nice 5.6-7 climbing to bulge then one lil' move right at the bolt to pull over. Fun! Aug 7, 2014

Andre Bruchez
Philadelphia, PA

5.10a PG13

Very enjoyable climbing. There is a huge runout to the first bolt (although through very easy climbing). Also another runout below the roof section. For that reason, I’d say this route may be scary for a timid leader. A few cams make the route super safe - but as a straight up sport route, this climb would benefit from another bolt or two. Either way - worth doing! Aug 24, 2021