All Locations > W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Kaymoor > 6. Butcher's Branch

Mo' Betta' Holds

Name: Mo' Betta' Holds
Rating: 3.1

5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British

Routes in 6. Butcher's Branch

L › R R › L A › Z

	Stop Pulling My Ear (Arppeggio) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Play it by Ear S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Just Another Glitch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Green Piece, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Low Voltage S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Ministry S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Sancho Belige S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Bicycle Club S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Boing S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Springer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Bag, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Lost Souls S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Jumpin' Ring Snakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Flight of the Gumbie S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Bourbon Flight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Bourbon Sauce S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Control S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Kaos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Mo' Betta' Holds S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	All The Right Moves S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Hard Core Female Thrash S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

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Type:	Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA:	Doug Reed (1991)
Page Views:	4,712 total · 24/month
Shared By:	Jeremy Steck on Apr 26, 2009
Admins:	Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

This climb is so much fun! Start by climbing up the small right facing corner to gain a stance. Traverse right and up a few feet to clip the second bolt with a fixed chain draw. Climb straight over a very shallow left facing corner (technical crux) to gain a nice stance below the roof. From here, follow excellent jug holds into the roof and head right using the large flake in the roof to gain a stance. Continue straight up, eventually finishing on the arete to reach the anchors. This is more of an endurance climb than it is technical.

The description for this route in the Wolverine guidebook says "Dangle out to the 'trash can lid' then throw them jugs to the ground on your way to the slabby top out." This part of the route is now on the ground.