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The Crackhouse

Name: The Crackhouse
Rating: 3.9

5.13- YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E7 6c British V8 YDS 7B Font

Routes in Crackhouse

	[Redacted] T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Baby House V2+ 5+
	Birth Canal, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V4 6B
	Crackhouse, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c V8 7B
	Fat Crack T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b V5 6C
	Fat Crack to Birth Canal T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b V5-6 6C+
	Outside Traverse S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a V4 6B
	Yuji's Crack T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b V6-7 7A+

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Type:	Trad, Boulder, 85 ft (26 m)
FA:	Dean Potter
Page Views:	15,490 total · 79/month
Shared By:	JNE on Apr 8, 2009
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

Start in the Birth Canal and at it's end take a 90 degree turn and climb through fifty plus more feet of fists, twists, hands, and maybe a few tight hands as you wind through a tunnel like cave. At the mouth of the cave bust through a big hands dihedral where the crack goes vertical for a few feet, followed by ten or more feet of splitter hands to tight hands that lead to an exciting finish. The Birth Canal is one crux and the end is a second crux, but endurance over the distance is the true challenge here as no individual section is any harder than 12-/V5 or so. This is without a doubt one of the finest cracks anywhere. It is especially appealing to me because it splits the cave it is in through it's proudest aspect.

There are many other variations starting at the various cracks and going to either side of the cave, including the one that traverses the jugs into the crack. This version is the one generally referred to as The Full Crackhouse.

Location

Drive down the Gemini Bridges Road. The Crackhouse will be right off the road a little before Gemini Bridges if you are coming from 191, and a little after if coming from 313.

Protection

At least one big pad for the lip is quite comforting. Even though the landing was flattened out significantly, there is still about a five foot drop off you could land half on and half off, so a spotter or two is helpful as well. The crack itself varies from five or so feet off the ground all the way up to about ten feet off the ground, so a spotter throughout the problem can be quite nice.