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> I) Honeymooner's Area
Jesus and Tequila
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | John Scott, Dave Groth- 1988 |
Page Views: | 10,561 total · 54/month |
Shared By: | Chandler Van Schaack on Apr 4, 2009 |
Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
Stick clip the first bolt and start from the top of the boulder by leaning across the gap to reach the first holds. Once established on the face, climb up and around to the right of the arete and back to the left side to clip the 2nd bolt. From here, work up the left side of the arete to the 5th bolt. Clipping the 5th bolt is difficult and much easier if the draws are hung. The crux begins at the 5th bolt. Utilize several crimps and find a way to gain the positive hold above at the base of a shallow dihedral. From here, continue up the dihedral, make a long move and continue up the next dihedral to reach the overhang. Make the final clip and find the crimp above to work out left a bit and follow a few positive slopers to the finish (redpoint crux).
There is a good 11d that starts on Sacrilege to the left, and then takes a hand traverse into the upper third dihedral of Jesus and Tequila. I did this the other day; you start traversing right when you are below the fixed pin on Sacrilege, and it's a really good route!
There is a good 11d that starts on Sacrilege to the left, and then takes a hand traverse into the upper third dihedral of Jesus and Tequila. I did this the other day; you start traversing right when you are below the fixed pin on Sacrilege, and it's a really good route!
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