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Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> (01) Calico Basin
> Red Spring
> Reptile Rock
Snake Charmer
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 1.9 from 10
votes
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Ninfa Cauchois and Philip Swiny |
| Page Views: | 2,067 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Jason D. Martin on Apr 3, 2009 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
The Snake Charmer is a fun little route that may be found on the right side of Reptile Rock. The line ascends an obvious dogleg crack in 2-4 pitches (depending on how you do it.)
Pitch One:
Ascend third class terrain to the base of the dogleg crack (3rd 45'). Certainly this may be scrambled and not pitched out.
Pitch Two:
Climb the right trending dogleg crack. The crux is right off the anchor -- it's a good idea to put in an anchor, because if someone blows off, you'll both take a ride down the third class terrain. Follow the crack to a double bolt anchor at a ledge at the base of a vertical crack (70' 5.6)
Pitch Three:
Climb straight up the crack, passing an annoying tree, to the face above. Beware the loose holds on the upper face. Pass three bolts to an anchor. It is possible to rappel the route from here.
Pitch Four:
Optional pitch -- some may find it easier to do another short pitch to the top of the feature.
From the top of the crag, step across a small gully and climb a low angle crack to an easy descent.
Pitch One:
Ascend third class terrain to the base of the dogleg crack (3rd 45'). Certainly this may be scrambled and not pitched out.
Pitch Two:
Climb the right trending dogleg crack. The crux is right off the anchor -- it's a good idea to put in an anchor, because if someone blows off, you'll both take a ride down the third class terrain. Follow the crack to a double bolt anchor at a ledge at the base of a vertical crack (70' 5.6)
Pitch Three:
Climb straight up the crack, passing an annoying tree, to the face above. Beware the loose holds on the upper face. Pass three bolts to an anchor. It is possible to rappel the route from here.
Pitch Four:
Optional pitch -- some may find it easier to do another short pitch to the top of the feature.
From the top of the crag, step across a small gully and climb a low angle crack to an easy descent.
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