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Plum Pudding

5.9, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 221 votes
FA: Ron Miller (1992)
Washington > Central-W Casca… > Skykomish Valley > Index > Middle Town Walls > Mid Wall

Description

This is an awesome layback climb up a right facing corner with finger sized gear. The climbing is fairly sustained, but a few small feet allow for rests and oportunities to place gear.

There is a fun corner to the right that you can TR from the anchors. That corner, PBR, checks in at around 5.10.

Location

This is the obvious right facing corner on the right side of the cliff.

Rappel with 1 rope from 2 bolt anchor

Protection

Protection to 0.5 camalot, with extras in the blue and yellow tcu size. There is a good 2 bolt anchor at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

overview of the right side of mid town wall
[Hide Photo] overview of the right side of mid town wall
Closing in on the anchors on Plum Pudding (5.9).
[Hide Photo] Closing in on the anchors on Plum Pudding (5.9).
Plum Pudding
[Hide Photo] Plum Pudding
Looking down Plum Pudding. Bring enough 0.4's or yellow aliens to enjoy the top section.
[Hide Photo] Looking down Plum Pudding. Bring enough 0.4's or yellow aliens to enjoy the top section.
The corner of Plum Pudding.
[Hide Photo] The corner of Plum Pudding.
great stemming rest before beginning the layback fingers
[Hide Photo] great stemming rest before beginning the layback fingers

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matt Schonwald
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] The Cummins topo lists it as 5.10A, which I would agree it is harder, more sustained than Godzilla.

The upper half is the business with a 20' section of yellow/orange TCU or .3 & .4 camolots with limited feet. The last 15' eases off to the anchors. Oct 20, 2013
[Hide Comment] Great climb! Thanks to those who have cleaned these routes! I can imagine without enough traffic (which I'm pretty sure they don't get), these climbs get pretty dirty. Aug 27, 2014
Geoff Georges
Seattle, WA
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] I don't think this is any harder then 5.9, and it would probably be 5.8 in Ca. May 16, 2015
Ben Kelley
Maple Falls, WA
[Hide Comment] geoff georges, I completely agree. It's so quality and so short that it could easily be 5.8. Jun 27, 2016
[Hide Comment] Did not thing it was 10a (definatley not at index) with "gear to .5" i was expecting more variety of gear, had a hard time finding a place for a .3 never did fit a .5 but you could sew this up with .4s (BD) couple good rest stances made it easy to place nuts a few times Jul 17, 2016
[Hide Comment] The route had a tree on it when Cummins put it in his guide (and when I first led it years later). Great warm up for the harder lines nearby. Gear to .5. You can also continue up from the anchor to the PBR anchor if you want to TR the best line on the Middle Wall. Gear to .75 Jun 11, 2018
Undocked Piggies
People's Republic of West M…
 
[Hide Comment] Nice rack is 3 of each .3 - .5 and then you can sew it up. I thought it felt easier than Princely and Godzilla. Jun 2, 2019
Adam Wood
seattle
Serge S
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] A size between 0.4 and 0.5 (e.g. orange Metolius) seemed more useful than 0.5 on this. Aug 26, 2019
Geoff Georges
Seattle, WA
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Douglas, my friend insisted on removing the maple tree when I was working on PBR. Jan 21, 2020
Ben Bilbrough
Portland, OR
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Going to bring 4x .4 up next time. Needed one more to sew up the final section, had to run it out, but solid layback locker climbing. Jun 22, 2021
Hangdog Hank
Leavenworth, WA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] save all your .4s for the layback section after the stem rest at the beginning. I am pretty confident at the grade and I agree with other comments that 4x .4s is a good starting point for protecting the upper section of this climb. If you're short on .4s ask the party hanging doggin the folsom crux to borrow some, theres no .4s needed on that climb. Jul 26, 2021
[Hide Comment] Great route now that it's been cleaned up. Older guidebooks give FA credit to Ron Miller and Dan Waters 6/92. Aug 7, 2021
Simon Kent
Pittsburgh
[Hide Comment] Got what I believe is the FKT plum run at 43.42 seconds. Starting on the ground no hands on the rock and stopping when I slapped the chains. Jul 21, 2024
Tom Skoog
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] Sorry Pittsburgh, but this fkt is for locals only.
imgur.com/j3HJ9vZ
41.4s to the chains. Aug 14, 2024