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Routes in Summer-Fall (rock)
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North Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Indentured Servant S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Tooth Fairy, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Southwest Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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South Face T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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East Face T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Tooth - Chair Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 330 ft (100 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | C.L. Anderson & Herman Wunderling (1928) |
| Page Views: | 44,339 total · 225/month |
| Shared By: | Tits McGee on Mar 17, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
The South Face is one of the oldest rock climbs in the history of Washington climbing, first scrambled by a few intrepid Mountaineers in 1928. It follows juggy features, ledges and flakes up the relatively narrow south face of the Tooth, accessed from Pineapple Pass. There is some dirty scrambling and loose rock on this climb but the position is outstanding, the climbing laid-back, and the summit views excellent.
P1 (5.3, 100ft) - From Pineapple Pass, head up and trend right through the general groove/line of weakness, and belay at the slung block.
P2 (5.4, 100ft) - Climb right to a ledge and follow other ledges back and forth, ending near trees with rap tat on the left.
P3 (4th, 70ft) - Scramble up through ledges and short steps. The path of least reistance leads right at the end but it really is choose your own adventure. Belay below the final steep wall.
P4 (5.4, 50ft) - There are three options for the crux and best pitch. Most will go slightly right to a juggy right-facing flake (5.4) which leads to the first rappel station and a scramble finish. To the left is a steep crack (5.8) with good gear and more rock to the summit. The classic finish leads left on balancey moves (5.4, exposed) to the Catwalk ledge, from which the summit is scrambled.
Protection
Light alpine rack - singles to 3 inches with a smattering of nuts
Rappel stations are fully equipped: (as of June 2021) 1st - 3 rap rings and many slings/cord around tree, 2nd - 8mm doubled cordelette w/2 quicklinks, 3rd - two trees each with a few slings, 4th - several slings and 3 rap rings around a block.
The east gully from Pineapple Pass has two bolted chain anchors to make two rappels with a 60m.
Location
The climb starts at the saddle at the top of Pineapple Pass (the notch between the Tooth and the smaller pinnacle just to the south). To get there, scramble up to the notch that is just south of Pineapple Pass. Then contour around clockwise to get to the start of the climb. A direct scramble up to Pineapple Pass is not recommended, as this is the rappel route. The final portion of the contour around involves some class 3 to 4 scrambling, but it is short and unexposed. Some parties have elected to do a running belay here, but it is not necessary.
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