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Routes in Buffalo Wall
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Tatanka T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2-3 R |
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Buffalo Soldiers T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 900 ft (273 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Harrison, Van Betten, Mamusia 1993 |
| Page Views: | 3,801 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | J. Thompson on Mar 15, 2009 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Pitch 1: Climb the slab leading to a good ledge at the base of obvious overhanging corner. Belay from 1 good bolt and a big cam. 5.6, 120ft.
Pitch 2: Climb the steep corner/dihedral above. At the top of the corner follow a short bolt ladder past a small tree. Climb past a couple more bolts to reach the anchor, which is 2 good bolts and an okay stance. A2+, 130ft.
Pitch 3: Face climb up and right, passing a huge detached block. Head for the obvious crack above. Follow this crack to a short left ward traverse leading to a bolt ladder on a steep section. At the top of the bolt ladder a couple more moves guard the anchor. The anchor has 1 very good bolt, bring a couple small cams(black alien) and/or a baby angle. There is a very good but sloping and shit covered ledge here. 5.9R, A2, 130ft.
Pitch 4: The Swift corner. Follow the splitter crack(under a roof) left and turn the corner. Continue up the crack until you reach a bolt. Continue up a very long section of bolts and hooking, with a few free moves here and there, on good rock. The belay is hanging and has 1 very good bolt and 1 okay bolt. 5.9, C2, 170ft.
Pitch 5: Start free climbing off the belay. Clip 1 good bolt then traverse right on the obvious foot rail. You are heading for a bolt just over a small roof. Step up high on this bolt to reach a bathook in the varnish above. Step up high on the bathook and mantle onto a big ledge. Go up and left on the ledge, being careful of loose rock. Belay at 2 very good but spaced bolts. This is Pabst Blue Ribbon ledge and would make a good place to bivy. 5.10R, C2, 100ft.
Pitch 6: Free climb up and traverse right then back left. You are aiming for the first bolt of a bolt ladder up an incredibly steep wall. Climb the bolt ladder with the occasional free move. At it's top traverse right on a small ledge to reach the belay at 2 good bolts. 5.9, C1. 130ft.
Pitch 7: Free climb off the belay by traversing right then straight up to a tree on a sloping ledge. Continue up the headwall above climbing on hooks between bolts. Belay at a good ledge from 2 good bolts. 5.8, C2. 140ft.
Pitch 8: Free climb up off the belay. About 20ft up traverse right on a small ledge. Face climb up aiming for the obvious right facing Dihedral. Pull over the top and tie off to a couple of trees.
5.9, 170ft.
Pitch 2: Climb the steep corner/dihedral above. At the top of the corner follow a short bolt ladder past a small tree. Climb past a couple more bolts to reach the anchor, which is 2 good bolts and an okay stance. A2+, 130ft.
Pitch 3: Face climb up and right, passing a huge detached block. Head for the obvious crack above. Follow this crack to a short left ward traverse leading to a bolt ladder on a steep section. At the top of the bolt ladder a couple more moves guard the anchor. The anchor has 1 very good bolt, bring a couple small cams(black alien) and/or a baby angle. There is a very good but sloping and shit covered ledge here. 5.9R, A2, 130ft.
Pitch 4: The Swift corner. Follow the splitter crack(under a roof) left and turn the corner. Continue up the crack until you reach a bolt. Continue up a very long section of bolts and hooking, with a few free moves here and there, on good rock. The belay is hanging and has 1 very good bolt and 1 okay bolt. 5.9, C2, 170ft.
Pitch 5: Start free climbing off the belay. Clip 1 good bolt then traverse right on the obvious foot rail. You are heading for a bolt just over a small roof. Step up high on this bolt to reach a bathook in the varnish above. Step up high on the bathook and mantle onto a big ledge. Go up and left on the ledge, being careful of loose rock. Belay at 2 very good but spaced bolts. This is Pabst Blue Ribbon ledge and would make a good place to bivy. 5.10R, C2, 100ft.
Pitch 6: Free climb up and traverse right then back left. You are aiming for the first bolt of a bolt ladder up an incredibly steep wall. Climb the bolt ladder with the occasional free move. At it's top traverse right on a small ledge to reach the belay at 2 good bolts. 5.9, C1. 130ft.
Pitch 7: Free climb off the belay by traversing right then straight up to a tree on a sloping ledge. Continue up the headwall above climbing on hooks between bolts. Belay at a good ledge from 2 good bolts. 5.8, C2. 140ft.
Pitch 8: Free climb up off the belay. About 20ft up traverse right on a small ledge. Face climb up aiming for the obvious right facing Dihedral. Pull over the top and tie off to a couple of trees.
5.9, 170ft.
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