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Desperate Land

5.10c, Sport,  Avg: 2.8 from 31 votes
FA: Phil Reynolds and Matt Crawley
Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > Rock Canyon > Bug Barn Dance Wall

Description

Surprisingly fun route to the left of Raid. I thought this route was a slight bit overrated in the Ruckman guide. But hey, .10c or d? who really knows?

The start is fun on a steep arete section and then you get the typical slab between steep steps common in the middle of Bug Barn. Quite enjoyable and not as stiff as many of the other lines here.

Protection

9 bolts and chain anchor.

Location

Starts on a little knoll higher than the surrounding cliff base. The third bolted line from the right on the main (southwest) face of Bug Barn.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Three exciting roofs.<br> <br> (4/6/09 Photo by Perin Blanchard)
[Hide Photo] Three exciting roofs. (4/6/09 Photo by Perin Blanchard)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] I really, really liked this route (and I thought it was a bit easier than Lacy Doggie Panties, so if that one is .10c, then this one is... .10c- ?) Apr 6, 2009
Christian "crisco" Burrell
PG, Utah
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] As I said in my description, I feel like it is overrated as well. I have no problem with calling it 5.10b. Apr 7, 2009
John Ross
Wasatch Front, UT
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Each roof was a blast. I especially liked making committing moves and being rewarded by good holds above. Add to it good rock and a quiet location to really make this a classic route. Apr 7, 2009
Jon Bitter
Waco, Tx
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Great holds the whole way up with a few committing moves on less stellar holds to reach the next jug. fun. May 28, 2010
Tim Moore
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Good route. Well bolted except for the first part you have to climb with a high first bolt but after that your fine. Great belay spot with a tree to rest in. Good climbing over both roofs with the second being much harder to get over especially with poor hand holds. It is very well bolted so you never have to worry about a hard committing move. Good solid rock a little slick because it's lime stone but a classic area and a must visit for rock canyon May 13, 2014
Shmalex Flowers
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Solid climb! Real chill climbing the whole way. Good breaks on some nice shelves. The crux i thought was sending the second roof. There is like an interesting boulder problem that I chose to get over the roof. There may be an easier way if you went out left, but it wouldn't be as fun. I would call this a 10.c Oct 5, 2020