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Two-Step Arete
5.8+,
Trad, 90 ft (27 m),
Avg: 1.9 from 14
votes
FA: Tom Howard, 1985
W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> New River Gorge…
> Endless Wall
> M) Fantasy Area
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
This route would benefit from more traffic, however it's not recommended unless you very proficient with placing gear and solid at the grade. A bit dirty, the top has lots of lichen. Start on the left of the arete. Climb up on this side until it's easier to be on the right. Continue up to reach a roof about 20ft from the top. Stay to the right of the arete, get some good gear(it's your last pro until the top), and pull the overhang heading for a tree. The gear is pretty tricky for the first 40 ft or so, after that it becomes more obvious. Take the placements when you get them. Interesting route for the grade!
Location
If you locate Fantasy, this is the next arete about 80 yards upstream.
Protection
Gear up to a #2 Camalot, mostly small nuts and small cams. The smaller the better, but no real need for brass or micro stoppers. Lower from slings around a tree at the top.
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Greencastle, PA