Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Tom Howard, 1985
Page Views: 2,839 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Mar 9, 2009
Admins: Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson

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Warning Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This route would benefit from more traffic, however it's not recommended unless you very proficient with placing gear and solid at the grade. A bit dirty, the top has lots of lichen. Start on the left of the arete. Climb up on this side until it's easier to be on the right. Continue up to reach a roof about 20ft from the top. Stay to the right of the arete, get some good gear(it's your last pro until the top), and pull the overhang heading for a tree. The gear is pretty tricky for the first 40 ft or so, after that it becomes more obvious. Take the placements when you get them. Interesting route for the grade!

Location Suggest change

If you locate Fantasy, this is the next arete about 80 yards upstream.

Protection Suggest change

Gear up to a #2 Camalot, mostly small nuts and small cams. The smaller the better, but no real need for brass or micro stoppers. Lower from slings around a tree at the top.

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