Type: | Ice |
FA: | John Imbrie + Karen Messer, jan 1978 |
Page Views: | 3,913 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Feb 18, 2009 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Access Issue: Avoid walking on the train tracks whenever possible.
Details
The Conway Scenic Railroad will be active in Crawford Notch this winter. It is critically important for climbers to avoid walking on the train tracks whenever possible. In an effort to minimize time spent on the tracks we are asking that you please take the Frankenstein Cliff Trail to the Amphitheater when climbing at Frankenstein, instead of walking on the tracks directly from the parking lot. Please do not leave packs, gear, or ropes on or near the rails, and avoid belaying near the tracks. Be prepared for trains to pass at any time, all winter.
The right of way for the railroad extends 50 feet on either side of the tracks, so while walking next to the tracks is likely safer, from the point of view of the railway it does not necessarily provide a solution. Ideally climbers should avoid being near the tracks whenever possible. We're requesting that climbers use alternative approach trails when it makes sense, such as in the case of the Frankenstein Cliff trail. If you do need to use the tracks, we want people to be aware of the situation, and to try not to spend excess time on them.
The right of way for the railroad extends 50 feet on either side of the tracks, so while walking next to the tracks is likely safer, from the point of view of the railway it does not necessarily provide a solution. Ideally climbers should avoid being near the tracks whenever possible. We're requesting that climbers use alternative approach trails when it makes sense, such as in the case of the Frankenstein Cliff trail. If you do need to use the tracks, we want people to be aware of the situation, and to try not to spend excess time on them.
Description
This route doesn't always come in but when it does it is great fun... While normally it climbs at grade 5 it has come in super fat and happy and was more like grade 4... Regardless of the difficulty check it out sometime...
Right of drop line is the even more elusive Last Exit to the right of that you will fine "The Machine" When i climbed it we used a 70m rope and did it in one pitch I'm not sure if a 60m will get you all the way (i think it would though) but there is a spot to stop half way if you need to break it up...
The start can be thin and require some tricky climbing well in to the no fall zone before you get gear in so either bring your cool head or wait for a fat year... climb the thin bit heading for the steeps above... There is a stance at the base of the headwall where you can shake off throw in a good screw and get ready to fire the pumpy finish... Climb a series of steep pillars and curtains to a stance then a couple more small bulges to the trees above...
Right of drop line is the even more elusive Last Exit to the right of that you will fine "The Machine" When i climbed it we used a 70m rope and did it in one pitch I'm not sure if a 60m will get you all the way (i think it would though) but there is a spot to stop half way if you need to break it up...
The start can be thin and require some tricky climbing well in to the no fall zone before you get gear in so either bring your cool head or wait for a fat year... climb the thin bit heading for the steeps above... There is a stance at the base of the headwall where you can shake off throw in a good screw and get ready to fire the pumpy finish... Climb a series of steep pillars and curtains to a stance then a couple more small bulges to the trees above...
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