PRINT: Rock Climb Sickness Unto Death, Eldorado Canyon State Park

Sickness Unto Death

5.12b/c PG13, Sport, 85 ft (26 m),

Avg: 2.4 from 5 votes
FA: Christian Griffith, Rusty Holcomb, '89
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two

Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.

Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.

The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.

For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

Again, expect big exposure while approaching, climbing and even belaying this route. This is a pitch for the "been there done that" 5.12 leader. Make sure you and your partner can communicate due to the noise.

Location

Start as for the 5th pitch of the Naked Edge. At the top of the ramp, bust up and left with the obvious bolt line. Pimpy thin moves will end up with runout, but reasonable climbing (#3 Camalot) to the top.

This route and Wingless Victory can both be approached by rapping from the top of the Naked Edge. Throw your rope out and backclip as you rap to the belay. Have fun!

Protection

4 bolts(8mm twisted leg glue-ins) and a #2 Camalot or #3 Friend (for up top) is very helpful. The belays are the same as the 5th pitch of the Naked Edge.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

About the same grade as Hairstyles with a tad more spice.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

doug rouse
Denver, CO.

5 years and no comments! No waiting lines here! Jun 2, 2014