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> Gutenberger Wall
Gutenberger's Wall
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.1 from 11
votes
Routes in Gutenberger Wall
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Collective Dementia S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dihedral Bypass T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Easy Way Up, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Got Gas? S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Grandma Buttonheads S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Grandpappy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Grizzly Green S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Gutenberger Edge S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Gutenberger Wall Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gutenberger's Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Iraqi Dihedral T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lichen Us T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Long Dong Arch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Right Up the Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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River Daughter S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Sadam. Me? TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Scud Buster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tanks for the Memories TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Trout Fishing in America S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Grant and Jeff Altenburg, early 1970s |
| Page Views: | 4,640 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | bob branscomb on Feb 10, 2009 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
A nice low angle face/friction climb on the pretty west face of the dome. Scramble up to a high ledge on the west side. Two pitches lead to the top. The second pitch, a little ways above the belay, is the hardest part.
Can also approach the ledge from the 5.5 approach to the central cracks. From the bolted belay on that, head right up an unprotected 5.4/5.5 slab between moss streaks to the long ledge.
Can also approach the ledge from the 5.5 approach to the central cracks. From the bolted belay on that, head right up an unprotected 5.4/5.5 slab between moss streaks to the long ledge.
Location
Up the un-vegitated west face of the dome. Scramble across the boulders in the river at the west side of the pool. A strange chimney manuever up a cleft in the step leads to scrambling up mossy rock and some poison oak to a long ledge about half way up the dome. Head up the center of the slab to a two-bolt belay. The main business above follows the bolts.
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