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Routes in Central Wall
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Alice in Banana Land T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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All the Nasties T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Banana Patch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bitchin Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Brain Dead S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Busted T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cowboyography T,S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Divine Wind / All the Nasties T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Fred’s Toprope S,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hueco Syndrome S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lunacy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lunar Abstract T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Malice In Bucketland S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Purple Microdot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Sea of Holes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Unknown Face T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Uriah's Heap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Walking on the Moon T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Window Pain S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 165 ft (50 m), Grade II |
| FA: | Mike Head? |
| Page Views: | 1,543 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Ken Trout on Feb 9, 2009 |
| Admins: | mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell, Kathy Farmer, Vincent P, Jim Day, Joanie Mars |
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Description
This is a nice crack for those who want to practice carrying a big rack. It looks like a 100 foot offwidth but is really a stemming corner with a big crack for pro. After the wide section, the crack decreases in size to fingers. Above the finger crack is a ledge with two bolts. Outstanding pitch!
From the end of pitch one it is possible to do a 60 meter rappel. (two 60 meter ropes)
Pitch two is a wide crack through a roof, above which more squeezing leads to the summit.
From the end of pitch one it is possible to do a 60 meter rappel. (two 60 meter ropes)
Pitch two is a wide crack through a roof, above which more squeezing leads to the summit.
Protection
Bring at least on #6 Camalot or friend to "walk" along as you stem. And a finger to fist sized rack of cams. Enough rope for a 60 meter rappel too, unless your topping out.
It may be possible to use the anchor of Lunar Abstract to get down with one rope. I have not tested this yet.
It may be possible to use the anchor of Lunar Abstract to get down with one rope. I have not tested this yet.
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