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Moby Dick (Direct Start)
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 4 from 3
votes
Routes in West Face
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Mesopotamia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Corner Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Wild Planet T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Tarzan Traverse, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Corndog T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Slab Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Wide crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Women On Mopeds T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Babes On Harleys T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rowens Andrews C2+ |
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Free Rowins-Andrews T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c R |
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Are You A God? T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b X |
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Rain of Terror A3- R |
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My So-Called "Friends" T A4- R |
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Iron Love T A3 |
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Yellow Beard S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Yellow Jacket T A3 X |
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Moby Dick (Direct Start) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Moby Dick S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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Alaskan King Crab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Crab Salad T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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arete, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Terry Andrews |
| Page Views: | 1,656 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Adam Peters on Feb 5, 2009 |
| Admins: | Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz |
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Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon
Details
Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here.
Details
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
Description
The direct start to Moby Dick is the logical line here. I chose to pretty much go straight up underneath the first bolt as opposed to the arching undercling/crack thing to the left. Start on good holds just right and move back left to gain the undercling and crimp rail just under the first bolt. Move up on sharp and small holds past the first bolt, then keep it together for the rest of this bueno route known as Moby Dick! Awesome freaking climbing!
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