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Boldfingers
5.12a,
Trad, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 3.8 from 22
votes
FA: Kris Kline, Eddie Begoon (1985)
N Carolina
> 1. Southern Mou…
> Rumbling Bald
> Screamweaver Area
Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
Boldfingers is a bad-ass route on great rock- classic NC hard trad. The climbing up to the crux is pumpy and fun, and the crux seam requires doing hard moves on small but good gear. While somewhat contrived, as there is an obvious weakness to the right, the direct start is also really cool (unprotected highball v4 boulder problem to a stance). Either way you do it, the route is killer.
Location
The route is just to the left of Static Klingon and Black Planet. It's the obvious crack system heading up the steep golden wall.
Protection
Mostly small cams with nuts (bring micros!), but there could be a few larger (#1 or #2) pieces if you want them. Two-bolt anchor.
[Hide Photo] Erica finding a Ballnutz placement for the crux
[Hide Photo] Erica almost falling off on the last move of the crux
[Hide Photo] Erica going with the short person beta
[Hide Photo] After pulling the boulder problem start, only to get shut down at the upper crux...
NC
Asheville
Charlotte, NC
Durham, NC