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Boldfingers

5.12a, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 22 votes
FA: Kris Kline, Eddie Begoon (1985)
N Carolina > 1. Southern Mou… > Rumbling Bald > Screamweaver Area
Warning Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags DetailsDrop down

Description

Boldfingers is a bad-ass route on great rock- classic NC hard trad. The climbing up to the crux is pumpy and fun, and the crux seam requires doing hard moves on small but good gear. While somewhat contrived, as there is an obvious weakness to the right, the direct start is also really cool (unprotected highball v4 boulder problem to a stance). Either way you do it, the route is killer.

Location

The route is just to the left of Static Klingon and Black Planet. It's the obvious crack system heading up the steep golden wall.

Protection

Mostly small cams with nuts (bring micros!), but there could be a few larger (#1 or #2) pieces if you want them. Two-bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Joe V initiating the crux
[Hide Photo] Joe V initiating the crux
Erica starting the crux
[Hide Photo] Erica starting the crux
Erica finding a Ballnutz placement for the crux
[Hide Photo] Erica finding a Ballnutz placement for the crux
Erica almost falling off on the last move of the crux
[Hide Photo] Erica almost falling off on the last move of the crux
Erica going with the short person beta
[Hide Photo] Erica going with the short person beta
After pulling the boulder problem start, only to get shut down at the upper crux...
[Hide Photo] After pulling the boulder problem start, only to get shut down at the upper crux...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joe V
NC
  5.12a PG13
[Hide Comment] Probably my favorite hard route at the Bald so far. The climbing is super sporty and the crux sequence is on very textured, bomber rock. You could place some small wires and even a decent cam in the seam mid-crux, but I elected to place a couple of bomber mid-size pieces at the great horizontal and bust through. Dec 28, 2016
Jacob Ward
Asheville
  5.12a PG13
[Hide Comment] You can place a bomber nut pretty easily by reaching high up from the jug below the crux seam. I placed a red dmm offset that looked slightly jank, till I fell on it and fixed it in place (oops). Sent it next go and couldn't retrieve the nut on the way down. The next person up will thank me for the easy clip and free gear if they can get it, but curse me for blocking up a useful (but not necessary) hold. Jan 12, 2021
Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC
[Hide Comment] Here's a video of Erica with her short person beta at the crux for anyone who is interested. youtu.be/G3o9ELHKNIA Jan 25, 2021
Aaron Reuben
Durham, NC
[Hide Comment] Stellar route. Opted to tackle the crux with two good cams in the horizontal below. Couldn't pull the sequence in the sticky weather (felt much better in the winter) and took a nice fall but landed too hard on my ankle on one of the faces below. Ankle puffed up so we had to bail. The fixed nut from Jan 2021 is gone but now I've left some older cams up there for those willing to try the route in the "off season." I think next time Ill probably stop and slot the nut at the base of the crux seam (and hope for a soft catch). May 2, 2022