Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
The Zipper
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British A0 PG13
Avg: 2.7 from 6
votes
Routes in West Face
|
|
Amazing Grace S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
|
|
Arching Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
|
|
Borgoff's Blunder T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Cowboy Boot Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Fastest Drill S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Grapefruit Dance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Horribly Heinous S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 PG13 |
|
|
Indecent Exposure T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
|
|
Men at Work T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Over the Rainbow T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Pete & Bob's T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Pillar Climb T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Rainbow Bridge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Trigger Finger S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Unzipped S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
|
|
Warren - Johnson S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
|
|
Zipper, The T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0 PG13 |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, Sport, Aid, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Gary Zeigler and John Auld, 1965. FFA Rolofson and Britt, 1984 |
| Page Views: | 2,686 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | SAL on Jan 30, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024-25 Closure & Seasonal nesting closures
Details
Per PPCA: the city is installing a new water main through the park and as such the West Face of North Gateway Rock will be temporarily closed to climbers until the project is complete. The project is slated to begin its final phase in spring 2025, and we will update with a reopening date as information becomes available.
Per Bret Tennis:
As of 3/29/23: the seasonal raptor closures are the same as in 2022 and recent years.
We have expanded the climbing closure for North Gateway Rock inside the Garden of the Gods. We expect our prairie falcons to fledge soon. Closures will be lifted once the raptors are safely flying and providing for themselves (or they leave the area).
Thank you,
Bret Tennis
Parks Operations Administrator
Garden of the Gods
Office: 719-219-0108
Bret.tennis@coloradosprings.gov
Old info:
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108) on 11/10/19:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is now open for rock climbing. The climbing closures on Sleeping Giant and the West Side of Gray Rock remain closed.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108):
New seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Per Bret Tennis:
As of 3/29/23: the seasonal raptor closures are the same as in 2022 and recent years.
We have expanded the climbing closure for North Gateway Rock inside the Garden of the Gods. We expect our prairie falcons to fledge soon. Closures will be lifted once the raptors are safely flying and providing for themselves (or they leave the area).
Thank you,
Bret Tennis
Parks Operations Administrator
Garden of the Gods
Office: 719-219-0108
Bret.tennis@coloradosprings.gov
Old info:
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108) on 11/10/19:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is now open for rock climbing. The climbing closures on Sleeping Giant and the West Side of Gray Rock remain closed.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108):
New seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Closures - these are the same as 2023
Details
Per Bret Tennis, GOG Park Operations administrator: the seasonal closures are the same as in 2023 for 2024.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.
In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.
In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Description
This is fun but sandy climbing on marginal pins and spinning quarter inch bolts. This route must go through many changes over the years. We felt like we were cleaning a new route. This does not see too much traffic. It is a good one to tick once the rest of the Garden is getting played out.
Pitch 1: Climb Unzipped to the two eye bolt belay at the base of the headwall. (One could climb Cowboy Boot Crack and then downclimb or lower to these anchors, but it would just add some more time.)
Pitch 2: The bizz. Climb up and right from the belay following old quarter inch bolts with no hangers. A fall here could be fun. Establish below the roof and clip the first pin. Pull the roof on sandy holds (5.10ish), then continue up the line of pins. The crux is the top two clips where the holds run out and the feet have been lost over time. Crux (5.11d??) Belay at a two drilled angle anchor with rap slings.
Pitch 3: Short and spicy. Climb up and right over loose rock to passed two pins to the summit.
Rap from here.
Descent Beta:
Rap off the east side of the spire off two drill angles into Tourist Gully. We beef'd up the anchor a bit with two new runners and put a locker on it. The Original is still in place with an old military cable thing and a single piece of shotty webbing. 1 60 meter rope will do the job for this route.
Pitch 1: Climb Unzipped to the two eye bolt belay at the base of the headwall. (One could climb Cowboy Boot Crack and then downclimb or lower to these anchors, but it would just add some more time.)
Pitch 2: The bizz. Climb up and right from the belay following old quarter inch bolts with no hangers. A fall here could be fun. Establish below the roof and clip the first pin. Pull the roof on sandy holds (5.10ish), then continue up the line of pins. The crux is the top two clips where the holds run out and the feet have been lost over time. Crux (5.11d??) Belay at a two drilled angle anchor with rap slings.
Pitch 3: Short and spicy. Climb up and right over loose rock to passed two pins to the summit.
Rap from here.
Descent Beta:
Rap off the east side of the spire off two drill angles into Tourist Gully. We beef'd up the anchor a bit with two new runners and put a locker on it. The Original is still in place with an old military cable thing and a single piece of shotty webbing. 1 60 meter rope will do the job for this route.
Location
This is on Tweedledumbshire Spire on the Southwest side of North Gateway.
It is just above Cowboy Boot Crack.
Climbed Unzipped to get there.
It is just above Cowboy Boot Crack.
Climbed Unzipped to get there.
5 Comments