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Shiny Faces

5.10d, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 26 votes
FA: Tom Howard, Doug Reed 1984
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Fern Buttress > 7) Orchard Wall
Warning Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS DetailsDrop down

Description

Start on a hand crack and move into long moves to jugs.  Mid route, navigate a wide section, then finish by utilizing horizontal holds and any kind of finger jamming you can manage.  This is a short route, but every bit as classic as the surrounding lines at Orchard.

Location

The wide crack just left of Hysteria.

Protection

This route will take everything from 6 to .4.  However, with good management, you could probably get away with 4 - .4.  Doubles in the .75 - .4 range will give you lots of options.  2 bolt anchor with rings to the left of the crack at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Shows the start and 3/4 of the route.
[Hide Photo] Shows the start and 3/4 of the route.
On the upper "finger" crack
[Hide Photo] On the upper "finger" crack