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Routes in King of Pain
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Sacred Space T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Kokanee Corner, The T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Egg Drop Soup T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Vision Quest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Ziji T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Rites of Passage T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Chip Chace, Monika Lou |
| Page Views: | 5,208 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Derek F on Jan 12, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
2025 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-as…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
"Wow" describes my deepest appreciation for the route as well as my disbelief that it hasn't already been posted here. I wonder if I'm breaking a sacred, unspoken code in doing so now. I climbed it back in November 2008, but I debated posting it. Like a rock face so good it will inevitably receive bolts, though, I figure it can be best to simply make sure the deed is done with care and respect for future climbers. As to how this little philosophy pertains to Ziji, I will try to give you the nuts and bolts and let your imagination inspire you on the rest. (Which is to express my wish that this route will not become another yardstick of tick marks, as often seems to happen to routes of proud reputation.)
So, without any more hot, stinky breath from me, here are the words in which you're more interested:
P1 -- Funky stemming to a difficult slot ends at a small belay ledge with drilled angles (11c).
P2 -- Ride the 1-inch splitter 90 feet to a sequential crux traverse left and another hanging belay at drilled angles (very solid 12). With a 70-meter rope and good use of long runners I think it would be possible to link the first pitch into this one. (That would be a proud/humbling ride indeed!)
P3 -- A fingers lieback in a steep right-facing corner deposits you on a comfy belay ledge with drilled pins (12-). (Or were those bolts?)
P4 -- Crank up a short, thin-hands corner, make a funky step left and pick your way gingerly to the summit (10-).
Rappel to the north with two ropes into the notch and then down Wild Flower. I'm very sure I remember two 70-meter cords reaching the ground from the notch, but if they don't there are intermediate rap stations.
So, without any more hot, stinky breath from me, here are the words in which you're more interested:
P1 -- Funky stemming to a difficult slot ends at a small belay ledge with drilled angles (11c).
P2 -- Ride the 1-inch splitter 90 feet to a sequential crux traverse left and another hanging belay at drilled angles (very solid 12). With a 70-meter rope and good use of long runners I think it would be possible to link the first pitch into this one. (That would be a proud/humbling ride indeed!)
P3 -- A fingers lieback in a steep right-facing corner deposits you on a comfy belay ledge with drilled pins (12-). (Or were those bolts?)
P4 -- Crank up a short, thin-hands corner, make a funky step left and pick your way gingerly to the summit (10-).
Rappel to the north with two ropes into the notch and then down Wild Flower. I'm very sure I remember two 70-meter cords reaching the ground from the notch, but if they don't there are intermediate rap stations.
Protection
The Bloom guidebook's gear suggestion was perfect: "(1)0.4, (2)0.5, (5)0.75, (9)1.0, (3)1.5, (2)2.0, small nuts. For pitch 1: (1)#2.5, (1)#4.0, (1)#4.5 Camalot." The listed Camalot size is an OLD #4.5, so if you have NEW ones bring a #5. There are a couple spots for the big pieces on P1 -- the question is where you should place the biggest ...
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