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Foops

5.10b, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 30 votes
FA: Mike Artz
Virginia > Shenandoah & NW… > Elizabeth Furnace > Talking Headwall

Description

Great route with two cruxes. The first is pulling the small roof, don't worry though, they're jugs. The roof ticks in at 5.9. The second crux comes 15 feet above the roof, you just pick a crimp and go. Other than that it's the typical Talking Head Wall route, easy climbing at the bottom with some pumpy moves up top.

Location

There is a large roof 50 feet right of Fortis. This line ascends the small crack in the roof and straight up to the anchors. It is the first line on the left side of the roof.

Protection

This is a mixed route with two bolts above the roof. Bring some small to medium gear for the rest. Ring anchors at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Leading Should Feel this Way, Little Balls, Big Balls <br> Someone at the top of Big Balls
[Hide Photo] Leading Should Feel this Way, Little Balls, Big Balls Someone at the top of Big Balls
Roof was the easiest part
[Hide Photo] Roof was the easiest part
The red rope gives a pretty good idea of the route, and this will at least help people find it.
[Hide Photo] The red rope gives a pretty good idea of the route, and this will at least help people find it.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

BrianWS
5.10c
[Hide Comment] Bring a rack of c3s and c4s, but nothing larger than #.75. The roof is easier than it appears, but there is a definite crux on the overhanging face above. The gear and bolts are good, but there is a fair amount of sand and loose blocks up top. Jun 10, 2011
Andy Weinmann
Campton, NH/Warmington, UK
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Gear at the roof, gear between the bolts. Great line. Jun 27, 2013
TyrelJ
Alexandria, VA
[Hide Comment] This climb can easily be done completely off the bolts (.75 BD C4 or X4 right above bolt 1 and black Camp tricam just under bolt 2), and I would at least recommend not using the second bolt. In my opinion, the second bolt is poorly placed, there is a small "ledge" right under the bolt and if you actually weight the draw clipped on it the biner will be loaded on it's side against the "ledge". Additionally, if the biner is loaded here it only takes a little movement on the part of the climber for the rock to open the gate on the biner. Oct 25, 2015
S Perry
 
[Hide Comment] I would disagree with TyrelJ about the second bolt. If you are worried about where the biner sits, just use a longer draw or sling. The rock quality gets worse and worse as you head towards the anchors so I would be skeptical of any gear placed towards the top.

If you brought your trad rack and you can climb the grade, this route is a must do for the area. Nov 14, 2017
I F
Megalopolis Adjacent
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Felt significantly harder than "leading should feel this way", but that might just have been the humidity. The second bolt placement is not great, it leverages the bolt side carabiner (can't be corrected with a long sling). Aug 23, 2021