Via del Padre
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Type: | Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 3,118 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Anthony Anagnostou on Dec 23, 2008 · Updates |
Admins: | Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
The actual suspension of climbing on Peña de Bernal:
- All routes on the South face are closed.
- The via feratta is closed for ascent or descent, including the rappel.
- The summit is closed by any route, including those from Chichid'ho side.
- You may climb the North side and routes on Campamento Chichid’ho side (although you may not summit).
- This will make climbing Filo Noroccidental impossible since it would be very difficult and dangerous to rappel the route.
Description
Fun face climbing on great rock. A steeper angle than 'Bernalina' makes it feel more sporty, but it's still well under vertical, with more hand and footholds than you know what to do with.
Roughly:
Pitch 1. ~5.8 to anchors. (i estimate that all three first pitches are more than 30m, but are definitely not rope-stretchers)
Pitch 2. ~5.9 to anchors
Pitch 3. ~5.9 to anchors on shoulder with lots of bolts.
Pitch 4. diagonal left to join the 4th class pitch on bernalina (up a little ways on pitch 3 of bernalina as i describe it). continue up dirty 4th class ramp to ledge with anchors. see bernalina beta for rest of the (5.6ish) climbing.
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