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Routes in Pitted Rock
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Gay Germans, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pitfall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Overpowered By Hootch TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Cockpit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Chuckles T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hurricane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pit Slut, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Gash, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Betty Gravel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Dave Bengston, 1991 |
| Page Views: | 1,037 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Dec 19, 2008 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
The crux on this route comes right off the first bolt, but the whole route is strenuous until you join The Gash (.10a) at the end. It is possible to enter the crack earlier or later, but I'm not sure it changes the overall difficulty much.
Location
This is the 4 bolt route on the east side of the rock, around the corner from Pitfall.
Getting down is a little treacherous; it looks like it may be possible to climb up and over the top where Betty Gravel is and descend, but it is also possible to descend via a crack/chimney past the Pitfall face. The latter option is filled with kitty litter and is not recommended. I can't remember if the Pitfall anchor is accessible or not; it may have been that I didn't have any spare webbing to replace the ancient sunbleached tat that exists up there currently. In any case use caution with any option.
Getting down is a little treacherous; it looks like it may be possible to climb up and over the top where Betty Gravel is and descend, but it is also possible to descend via a crack/chimney past the Pitfall face. The latter option is filled with kitty litter and is not recommended. I can't remember if the Pitfall anchor is accessible or not; it may have been that I didn't have any spare webbing to replace the ancient sunbleached tat that exists up there currently. In any case use caution with any option.
Protection
4 bolts. A piece of gear at the start (small cam, not very good) protects getting to and clipping the first bolt and is probably a good idea. An optional cam can be placed in the finishing crack if desired. No fixed anchors on top; natural gear to 3 inches and slings are needed to build a toprope anchor.
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