PRINT: Climb Chips, Joe's Valley

Chips

V7, Boulder, 12 ft (4 m),

Avg: 3.5 from 447 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Central Utah > Joe's Valley > New Joe's > Chip & Dale

Access Issue: Don't climb on wet rock! Details

Attention:

Don't climb on wet rock! Sandstone is a porous rock type that can absorb a lot of water. It can lose up to 75% of its strength while wet, making it easy to snap off holds and irreparably damage classic climbs. Wait 48 to 72hrs after precipitation. If the ground is still damp then the rock is still wet. A great way to check for precipitation history before traveling to Joe's is to go to this site-

climate.usu.edu/mchd/dashbo…

and under "Data Charts" click the "Precipitation" tab. Make sure the surface wetness is 0 before climbing.

Description

This problem begins on Planet of the Apes but instead of getting the crimp with your left hand go to it with your right. Work your way left around the corner and get the rail feature with your left hand. The higher the better because the next move is a deadpoint dyno up and right although I have seen people do it static using an intermediate hold. Some people think this is easier than Planet of the Apes.

Protection

Pads

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Chips

The fun dynamic beta on Chips!

A New Joe's classic!

Just after the crux dead point/dyno on "Chips"

Sticking the big move

Flashing Chips.

Working the dyno on Chips.<br>
<br>
- Photo by Jen.

Working the dyno on Chips. - Photo by Jen.

some gecko friction is needed

Chips, V7, Joe's

THC on Chips

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Garrett Carter
SL, UT

Amazing problem with a fun kneebar at the start. Landing is as safe as it gets. Got this problem but could not get Planet of the Apes right next to it. Jan 23, 2015

thisisclarke
Houston, TX

If you don't do it with the dyno, then you're clever (and/or short). Not sure if it's actually a V7, but I thought it was considerably harder than Planet of the Apes. Other climbers in my group thought the opposite (height could be the deciding factor in this). Jul 1, 2015

Ryan Selfaison
Provo, UT

Trust the pockets or you might botch the top :[)
youtube.com/watch?v=avtIvbV… Dec 6, 2019

Sam Wilson
Asheville, NC

youtube.com/watch?v=sgx8T5W…
Another beta option for the short folks. Adds an additional powerful bump, but makes the "dyno" move feel mellow and controlled. May 9, 2021

Carter Purvis
Sun Prairie, WI

youtu.be/NXmV5qWTD5c
Finding the top out pockets in the dark was a good time! Aug 16, 2021

L Mitch
Bham, AL

goated Jan 27, 2023

Devin .

Since when have people stopped doing Chips and Planet of the Apes from a sit start?
It clearly says its a sit start in the guide but everyone starts it from a stand nowadays.
Anyone know why that is?

Barefoot beta (from a full SDS) at 1:13 of this video:
m.youtube.com/watch?v=88se5… Nov 6, 2023

Zach Bramel
MN

Video: youtu.be/ec_cpmL_f98?si=BK1… 37 mins ago