Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 5 pitches |
FA: | Phil Dean 1968 |
Page Views: | 4,311 total · 22/month |
Shared By: | peachy spohn on Dec 4, 2008 |
Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
I only climbed the 11a first pitch, but pitches 3, 4, and 5 I have climbed when doing 'Zebra Zion.' The first pitch is fairly long and gives a good leg pump, but there are plenty of good shakes. The moves that are in the 10c section and which the book says makes a great climb on its own are the hardest. High-stepping is very beneficial. That said, if you make it through to the first set of anchors you should keep going because it's not any more difficult. However the gear sucks through the 11- section and a long fall is pretty much guaranteed if you let go...so don't. Great rock and cool moves.
Pitches 3, 4, and 5 can be checked out on the 'Zebra Zion' link.
Pitches 3, 4, and 5 can be checked out on the 'Zebra Zion' link.
Protection
There are five bolts on the route, if you clip one of the anchors on top of the 10c section and the bolt one foot above the anchor which has emerged out of the wall about a 1/2 inch. Otherwise, bring a set of nuts, a few small cams (metolious 00-4), and a few medium cams (metolious 6,7,8). Just before the 11- section that the book shows you can place a bomber #4, an okay #00, or a fairly bad small stopper (or all if you want). The bolt that looms above has great holds to clip from, but just make sure you get to them.
8 Comments