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Routes in (g) Morning Glory Wall
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5 Gallon Buckets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Anonymity S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cat Scan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Choss in America S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Churning in the Ozone S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Churning in the Sky S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Churning in the Wake S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Cool Ranch Flavor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cool Ranch Flavor Extension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Da Kine Corner S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dandy Line S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Doritos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Energy Crisis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fun Churning Buttress Linkups S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Gumby S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Kings of Rap S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Light on the Path S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lion Zion S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lion Zion (Extension) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lion's Chair T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Lion's Chair Start T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lion's Jaw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Magic Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Magic Light Start S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mane Line S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Morning Sky S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Nacho Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Nine Gallon Buckets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Outsiders, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Overboard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Oxygen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Ozone Hole S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Sign of the Times S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Sketch Pad S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Taco Chips S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Taco Times S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Tammy Bakker's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Vicious Fish S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Waste Case S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Zebra Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Zebra Seam S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Zion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Phil Dean 1968 |
| Page Views: | 4,310 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | peachy spohn on Dec 4, 2008 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
I only climbed the 11a first pitch, but pitches 3, 4, and 5 I have climbed when doing 'Zebra Zion.' The first pitch is fairly long and gives a good leg pump, but there are plenty of good shakes. The moves that are in the 10c section and which the book says makes a great climb on its own are the hardest. High-stepping is very beneficial. That said, if you make it through to the first set of anchors you should keep going because it's not any more difficult. However the gear sucks through the 11- section and a long fall is pretty much guaranteed if you let go...so don't. Great rock and cool moves.
Pitches 3, 4, and 5 can be checked out on the 'Zebra Zion' link.
Pitches 3, 4, and 5 can be checked out on the 'Zebra Zion' link.
Protection
There are five bolts on the route, if you clip one of the anchors on top of the 10c section and the bolt one foot above the anchor which has emerged out of the wall about a 1/2 inch. Otherwise, bring a set of nuts, a few small cams (metolious 00-4), and a few medium cams (metolious 6,7,8). Just before the 11- section that the book shows you can place a bomber #4, an okay #00, or a fairly bad small stopper (or all if you want). The bolt that looms above has great holds to clip from, but just make sure you get to them.
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