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Heathen's Highway

Name: Heathen's Highway
Rating: 2.3

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13

Routes in Christian Brothers - East Side

L › R R › L A › Z

	[Redacted] S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Am I Evil? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Asterisk, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Attic Antics T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Barbecue The Pope S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Big Bone Lick S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Blasphemy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Blue Balls T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
	Bowling Alley T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Boy Prophet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
	Burning Churches S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Charlie's Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Chemical Ali S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
	Child's Play T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Choke On This S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Clam, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Culture of Fear S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Dancer S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Deep Splash S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Double Stain T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Double Trouble S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Dreamin' S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Earth Boys S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	El Sancho S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Fright Night S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Golgotha T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Gothic Cathedral/Last Gasp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Heathen's Highway T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Heresy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Hesitation Blues T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Holy Road S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Irreverence S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Island in the Sky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Jete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Kathleen Finds An Edge S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	La Shootist S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	left side of the Beard, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Lightsaber S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Littleneck S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Lunatic To Love S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Mark Cartier Memorial (MCM) Route, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Modern Day Prophet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	New Testament T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Nightingale's on Vacation S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Old Testament T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Overnight Sensation S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Panic Attack S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Rawhide S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Return of the Redeye S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Revelations S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	right side of the Beard, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Ring of Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Riot Squad, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Rude Boys S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Rude Femmes S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
	Scarface S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
	Self Preservation Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Shoes of the Fisherman T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Smooth Boy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	That 10d S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	That First Step S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Toy Blocks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Toys In The Attic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Via Dolorosa S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Wartley's Revenge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

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Type:	Trad, Sport, 290 ft (88 m), 4 pitches
FA:	1979 Jim Anglin
Page Views:	2,756 total · 14/month
Shared By:	peachy spohn on Dec 3, 2008
Admins:	Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

I approached the route via 'Barbecue the Pope' but there are many options to gain access to the first pitch on top of the Testament Slab (at its very apex).
From here ascend a face with numerous pockets that are fun and quite juggy. Move right for four bolts and then back left and up to the anchors. The rock is fairly solid through this pitch and is the best pitch of Heathen's Highway.
For the next pitch traverse right and up into a crack. This pitch would be cool if climbed more, but is very loose and dirty (and is one reason for the pg-13 grade I gave it). On top of this crack is a small chimney that leads to an anchor on the left side of the corridor.
Pitch 4 climbs a very loose slab to the summit of the Friar and has one new bolt and a few old homemade bolts (the other reason for the pg-13).
All in all, if the route had better quality rock up higher it would be very fun and safe, but with the looseness it only deserves 2 stars.
Descend near the summit of the Friar and onto its east side. Go into the 'Hobbit Hole' and scramble out of it and over to a rappel that takes you down just opposite of the 'Go Dog Go' tower.