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The Cock Block

V5, Boulder, 10 ft (3 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 42 votes
FA: unknown
New Hampshire > Rumney > Rumney Bouldering > Black Jack Boul… > Block Area > Block

Description

Sit start just left of the The Block Problem (V9). Using a jug with your right hand and a sloper and a thumb catch with you left. Make a long move to a good hold straight up. Match then move way out right to a rail then top out. I found the key to this problem is having your feet in the right place think heels and back steps.

The route felt soft but it is listed in the guide book as V6 so I posted it as the book has it listed.

Up and right of the umbrella boulder.

Location

located up and right of the umbrella boulder

Protection

pad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Start holds for the problem - it begins from a true sit. Starting higher will make it much easier.
[Hide Photo] Start holds for the problem - it begins from a true sit. Starting higher will make it much easier.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

chris deulen
Denver-ish, CO
[Hide Comment] This description is V4. Dec 31, 2009
MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
  V5-6
[Hide Comment] Chris do you mean i mixed up my routes? Jan 1, 2010
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V5-6
[Hide Comment] Definitely a bit soft, but fun nonetheless. Good movement. Jun 21, 2012
Andrew Phillips
Astoria, NY
  V4-5
[Hide Comment] Fun Movement. Took 4 attempts to top out. I would range in the v-4/5 range. Great problem and top out but found it difficult to come down.. Using the tree could be a bit dangerous, get a good spotter Jul 6, 2016
Vince Schaefer
Boston, MA
  V6
[Hide Comment] The starting jug came off pretty easily this weekend...

First Move is legit now. Felt solid V6. Nov 13, 2016
[Hide Comment] youtu.be/DVrnvx8P_6A

Cool climb first one in the video that was his first v6, I flashed soft Oct 12, 2017
MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
  V5-6
[Hide Comment] I was able to repeat this fairly quickly today. Post break the grade is certainly harder, but I would be hesitant to call it v6, but time will tell based on what others experience. The first couple moves are more engaging and this has created a higher quality boulder problem. The beta I used could be only for tall people, with that said, I will adjust the grade to v5-6 and then we can see what people think of it post break.

Also, Austin in your video I believe the climber started one move into the climb. Right hand on the now sloping crimp (where the jug used to be) and left on a nothing little bump to the left. I will get a close up of the starting holds next time I am there for clarification. Oct 23, 2017
Conor Dube
Orford, NH
[Hide Comment] Where are people starting this from? In more recent videos (above in the comments and youtu.be/JOvVTTLChwk) it seems like the start holds are higher than in this video: youtu.be/h12DHCIYdi0 (2011, pre-break). I've added a photo with the holds it seems like people are using now in red and the old? starting holds in blue. From the lower start V5-6 seems fair, the higher start is definitely easier but probably more natural. Aug 3, 2021
MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
  V5-6
[Hide Comment] Conor, the start holds are blue, starting from the red would make it significantly easier. Aug 4, 2021
Conor Dube
Orford, NH
[Hide Comment] Thanks Matt! I've updated the photo to make it clear. It was wet when I went to scope it out but you could definitely tell that the higher start cut out most of the difficulty. Crux for me is probably sorting out feet for the first couple of moves. Aug 4, 2021
Matt Macrelli
living mobile in VT, NH, an…
[Hide Comment] Sent yesterday from the sit with starting hands as in the photo. My RH never touched anything on the left so I think I used Unblocked beta. Stoked to get on it! Jul 14, 2023
Mike Gagnon
Plymouth, NH
[Hide Comment] This route has a massive tree on it that must’ve fallen during the wind storm. It’s unclimbable as of now May 17, 2024