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The On-Slot

5.11, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 18 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Supercrack Buttress
Warning Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Location

Right of Bad Rad Duality. Pull an undercling to fingers roof and continue into a tight corner.

Description

Right of Bad Rad Duality. Boulder through a roof from underclings to finger locks to a rest stance. Power up through a tight corner / slot past a horizontal and up to another rest stance on a ledge. Find a way to get off the stance and continue up the slot the rest of the way. Top out the crack and step over right to the bolt anchors.

Who knows, you might arm bar, fist jam, chicken wing, heel toe scum, and or use the arete. So many options...

Protection

Fingers through hands

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

all ED all day
[Hide Photo] all ED all day
ed on the rest.. HOLD HOLD!
[Hide Photo] ed on the rest.. HOLD HOLD!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Neil Kauffman
Bishop, CA
 
[Hide Comment] On-slot? Mar 7, 2011
slim

  5.11 PG13
[Hide Comment] almost an awesome route, but the rock quality at the start isn't that great. kind of spooky as your gear is in it and you are tugging on it pretty hard. luckily it is over pretty quick and then the rock is good, with fun flare climbing. a good rack would be a set of tcu's from silver to orange, 2 sets of camalots from .3 to 2 with a bunch of extra .5's. a #4 would be handy at one section of the flare. May 17, 2011