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Tales From the Hard Side
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.9 from 24
votes
Routes in Holiday Block
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Gravy Train T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Oyster S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Walking the Dog T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Rabies S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pump Handles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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That Eight (aka Kennel Club) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chimney Approach T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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They Call Me Cruiser T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cruise This S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bird in Hand S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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My Dog Has Fleas S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Mark's Menace T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Launchitude T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sandrewf T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Cinco de Mayo S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Plush S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Never Believe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tales From the Hard Side S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fat Tuesday T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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Pigs in Zen (Tuesday's Gone) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Shannon Stegg |
| Page Views: | 2,884 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Will S on Nov 13, 2008 |
| Admins: | Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
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Description
This is a fantastic steep and bouldery route with two distinct cruxes, one after the second bolt and one just below the top. Gym rats and boulderers will love this one. Sequence through the first couple bolts is important to minimize the number of moves and to be clipping off the right holds.
Steepish climbing on jugs and edges lead to the second bolt where a wild balancy sequence starts involving a sloping sidepull and a huge right hand move to a full-hand flat edge. Easier climbing on medium to small edges gets you to the second crux just below the juggy horizontals a body length below the top. Either use a crimp on the right to gain the jugs, or use a bad shallow pinch on the left and make a big dyno right/up for the jug rail. Either way, latch the jugs, clip the last bolt and romp up 5-easy for a bodylength to the top.
Although this was originally rated 12b, a foothold broke sometime after I last climbed it (mid/late 90s), yielding a better foot, and consensus is that it's now quite a bit easier, with the grade settling around 11d. Also sounds like it has been re-bolted with the bolts in different places, which seems odd, as the route was safe enough before.
Steepish climbing on jugs and edges lead to the second bolt where a wild balancy sequence starts involving a sloping sidepull and a huge right hand move to a full-hand flat edge. Easier climbing on medium to small edges gets you to the second crux just below the juggy horizontals a body length below the top. Either use a crimp on the right to gain the jugs, or use a bad shallow pinch on the left and make a big dyno right/up for the jug rail. Either way, latch the jugs, clip the last bolt and romp up 5-easy for a bodylength to the top.
Although this was originally rated 12b, a foothold broke sometime after I last climbed it (mid/late 90s), yielding a better foot, and consensus is that it's now quite a bit easier, with the grade settling around 11d. Also sounds like it has been re-bolted with the bolts in different places, which seems odd, as the route was safe enough before.
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