PRINT: Rock Climb Blues from a Gun, Wasatch Range

Blues from a Gun

5.10b, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),

Avg: 1.6 from 12 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Wasatch Range > Northern Wasatch > Ogden > Ogden Canyon > Ice Wall

Description

It is pretty consistently difficult route for the rating. It has two cool mantles and at the top some amazing thin face climbing on small edges. Pretty fun and a good warm up.

Location

This is the route second from the right on the upper wall.

Protection

5 or 6 bolts and chains at the top. Go to the left and use the newer and more solid chains.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Riddler
Sammamish, WA

Really awkward start, but fun up above. The middle section is a bit contrived; it takes a lot of discipline to stay in the bolt line. Aug 11, 2009

jeffozozo
santa clara, utah

I did this as an onsite lead, and it was a little sketchy. The last bolt is about 10 feet from the top--there are plenty of good holds but the top ledge is kind of slopey. It looks like you could make a big throw to grab it, but you should make a few moves and work your feet up under you before you go for it. Oct 21, 2009

Taylor Gemperline
Charlottesville, VA

5.10d

This was a sketchy lead. A few places where a fall could be traumatic. Also, THERE ARE NO LONGER CHAINS AT THE TOP, just two hangers (and one of them looked suspect. You can clean the route and walk to the chains on the climbers left, but kinda an additional sketch factor. Jul 25, 2017

Mark Gjeloshaj
Salt Lake City, UT

Single bolt to lower off of at the top. Second bolt is very loose and needs replacing, but it looks like someone thought ahead and removed the quick link from the hanger to prevent anyone from lowering on it.

Start is an interesting mantle that can be slightly awkward, but take your time and find the moves. The crux is at the last bolt before the chains and it is quite delicate finger pocket/crimps, just make sure you read it carefully since it can be a little slippery! Otherwise a pretty decent warmup. May 11, 2022