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Pocket Rocket

5.10c, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 3.6 from 460 votes
FA: T.Perkins, LJ Davis, K. Davis - 2006
Utah > Southeast Utah > Potash Rd > Day Canyon > Day Canyon Cragging R…
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

The route starts with harder moves through an overhang then easing to very fun 5.9 climbing on super cool pockets.

Location

About 200 yards in the canyon you'll see impressive pockets on the right hand wall.

Protection

8 bolts, chain anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Swinging trying to pull the roof
[Hide Photo] Swinging trying to pull the roof
Nearing the couple harder moves at the top before the anchor.
[Hide Photo] Nearing the couple harder moves at the top before the anchor.
Getting ready to pull the roof
[Hide Photo] Getting ready to pull the roof
PC: Marie
[Hide Photo] PC: Marie
Alex sending Pocket Rocket
[Hide Photo] Alex sending Pocket Rocket
Ethan crushing Pocket Rocket
[Hide Photo] Ethan crushing Pocket Rocket
Delicious pockets. Easy to spot as you walk into Day Canyon.
[Hide Photo] Delicious pockets. Easy to spot as you walk into Day Canyon.
Greta with the onsight!
[Hide Photo] Greta with the onsight!
Climbing the rocket
[Hide Photo] Climbing the rocket
Fun times on the first roof crux, but smooth sailing after that (until the lost feet at the end)!
[Hide Photo] Fun times on the first roof crux, but smooth sailing after that (until the lost feet at the end)!
Who knew there was such a line in Moab!
[Hide Photo] Who knew there was such a line in Moab!
Kiddo doing his thing on the upper section
[Hide Photo] Kiddo doing his thing on the upper section

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

A. Roberts
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Cool looking route. Are the holds solid? Good job. Nov 10, 2008
[Hide Comment] The holds are definitely solid. Steep start!! Excellent route. May 31, 2009
Connor.Donahue
Portland OR
[Hide Comment] This was so sandy, I'd never climb it ever again. Jun 8, 2010
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Worth doing once, one star for the climbing and one star for the uniqueness of the route. The 3/8" bolts aren't very inspiring, and the 3rd has been used for target practice, so it now spins and sticks out of the wall some. And yeah, it's a little sandy, but come on, this is hueco choss climbing in the desert, what did you expect? Oct 19, 2010
Tyjacobo
Salt lake city, UT
  5.10a/b PG13
[Hide Comment] Fun climb. I would say it is a bit over rated compared to some climbs in the Moab area. It's rated 5.10c, I'd rate it 5.10a/b.
Looks like someone took a ripper on the 3rd bolt. It's sticking out of the wall about 3/4". The rock quality overall is pretty soft, which made me wish it had a 3 bolt anchor like most other climbs in the Moab area, instead of 2.
The crux is at the very beginning. It can be stick clipped. After the 2nd bolt its pretty easy. Sandy and loose though. Helmets are good here.
Pocket Rocket.  Small roof crux a the bottom.
Dec 8, 2012
paul bucher
moab, utah
 
[Hide Comment] fun route. easy to get to. pumpie start. five gallon bucket holds. clean; by desert standards. sportie. well worth doing. drake fired it!!! Apr 3, 2013
T Dz
Conifer, CO
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Very fun route. The moves to the first two bolts are definitely the crux moves. Lots of sand in the "pockets," but it's a sandstone route so I wasn't really surprised. 3rd bolt seemed sketchy.
Mar 13, 2014
[Hide Comment] The third bolt on this climb needs to be replaced! I could see a actual crack in the hanger, looks like somebody shot it with a gun... would be cool if somebody could replace it. Oct 24, 2014
Crag Turkey
Liberty Wells, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Great climb, first bolt is deceptively high. This is easily my favorite sport climb for the grade in Moab. If a little sand bugs you then head over to wall street, though this is the desert soo.... Third bolt definitely shot with a gun, but the climbing past it is pretty easy. May 26, 2015
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Great route! If you are worried about the bolts there are many features that could be girth hitched with long slings. May 16, 2016
[Hide Comment] First bolt is still out and laying on the ledge. Was a pleasant surprise to see it there. Third bolt is in hollow rock and the entire climb is worthy of a wag bag if you like hearing the thunk of hollow rock on each bolt and hand hold. I was glad to get back on solid ground! Oct 9, 2017
D Scott Clark
Chattanooga, TN
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Climbed PR today. Incredible route! Bolts looked solid, except the second to last was a spinner. Tricky beginning with stellar, novel climbing after. Nov 24, 2017
shawn Kenney
Draper, UT
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Climbed this route on April 7th 2019. Great route with a tricky start. I felt like all the bolts are solid other than one that spins near the top 2/3s of the route. Apr 10, 2019
Kale LoBosco
Colorado Springs, CO
[Hide Comment] 4.20.19- Tons of fun. Very well protected. Compared to where we live (near Garden of the Gods) this rock is solid. Plus it's just a beautiful canyon. Apr 25, 2019
Wilson McKay
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] If you ever find yourself in Moab without a rack but you've got draws, do this then head up Day Canyon to Boognish Tower. This canyon is incredibly peaceful. Feb 2, 2021
Kaz Hatfield
Firestone, CO
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] This is an an amazing location. Probably more like a 5.10a/b unless you really botch the start but to each there own. Either way a fun route that's worth the drive and find. You could probably lead this on gear. Nov 17, 2021
[Hide Comment] From ground to bolted anchor is 79 feet. All of the bolts appear to be in good condition. There are many opportunities for threading slings. Gymnastic start! Dec 28, 2021
Kevin Heinrich
AMGA Rock Guide
 
[Hide Comment] Rebolted with glue-ins courtesy of the ASCA. Work by Chris Lile and myself.

Support the ASCA: safeclimbing.org/

Edit: Please do not sling the delicate features on this route, it is well protected by the existing bolts. May 17, 2022
[Hide Comment] Thanks for the work!!! Such a worthy route! May 17, 2022
DnA Brygge
Gvarv
 
[Hide Comment] Fun route, though it was a bit intimidating to get to the first bolt. Climb to the first bolt from the ground straight below it, ignore the chalk to the left side or perhaps use/make a stick clip. May 31, 2022
Russell Springer
Rexburg, ID
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Beginning is difficult. Got stuck multiple times on a very deep, nice, juggy hold. Almost like a handle. Just to the left and up is a slopey crimp type hold. It feels weird to trust it but it goes. Fun boulder crux. Near the top you reach a point where the distance is really far between holds. There is a sloped part of the wall that you can get up on. Again, feels weird, but trust your feet, the rubber will hold. Fun climb! Went with my cousin and learned how to belay!

Note - this was one of my first outdoor routes. It was a while ago and I was not in climbing shape or a good climber. This may affect my beta. Go have fun!! Aug 18, 2022
M Bageant
Los Angeles, CA
[Hide Comment] SUPER fun climb! Bolts are well placed to protect the crux, stick clip the first one if you are nervous. In mid October, went into the shade around 4pm. Oct 24, 2022
[Hide Comment] I got bored enough to finally explore a possible second pitch or extension. I rapped in from the top in order to not drill any extra holes if the route ended up being a dud. I was able to get it about 70’ higher till a mandatory hold broke. After that it would really only extend 40’ at about 5.10. It would clean up the exact same as the first pitch, but of course would take plenty of work and ascents. Look to the left or right of Pocket Rocket to see what the pockets used to look like. I had fat 6” glue-ins in the car, but ended up passing. Kinda wishing I had gone through with even the short extension. 1 day ago
[Hide Comment] Too bad, looks like it could go a ways. Should have pulled the trigger. 1 day ago