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> Aftershock Wall
Aftershock
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 3.3 from 29 votes
Type: | Trad, Sport, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Visser, Beck, Harding |
Page Views: | 4,574 total · 23/month |
Shared By: | Guy H. on Nov 4, 2008 |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: PRECIPITATION AND WET ROCK
Details
The sandstone here is easily damaged when wet. Please allow at least 24-48 hours before climbing after any precipitation. If the ground is at all damp, please do not climb on any local sandstone. Consider nearby options on basalt, limestone, granite, or plastic instead.
Description
This varied route is a must do for the area. Most climbers only sample the first two or three pitches, which have some classic varnished face climbing.
P1: Heady friction leads to the right and a well protected 5.10a mantle. Another funky 5.10 move leads to the LF dihedral above. A green alien is helpful in this section. A short easy runout leads to chains.
P2: A short runout leads to the first of many bolts angling up and right. The height dependent crux (5.10c/d) is at the last bolt. The 3rd to last bolt directs the rope into a crack under a flake, so a long sling may be helpful. Belay in a hole similiar to the one on Pygmy Alien. An airy pitch...
P3: Wild moves lead out of the cave to the left. 6 bolts protect these heady moves up the varnished slab to a two bolt anchor. (5.11a)
P4: Follow the varnished crack to the top of the wall. The crux is finger size, but the crack widens higher up. Plan on walking off the top.
It is possible to descend from the top of P3 with a single rope. An off route anchor is located below the P2 anchors, which is located on a blank wall.
P1: Heady friction leads to the right and a well protected 5.10a mantle. Another funky 5.10 move leads to the LF dihedral above. A green alien is helpful in this section. A short easy runout leads to chains.
P2: A short runout leads to the first of many bolts angling up and right. The height dependent crux (5.10c/d) is at the last bolt. The 3rd to last bolt directs the rope into a crack under a flake, so a long sling may be helpful. Belay in a hole similiar to the one on Pygmy Alien. An airy pitch...
P3: Wild moves lead out of the cave to the left. 6 bolts protect these heady moves up the varnished slab to a two bolt anchor. (5.11a)
P4: Follow the varnished crack to the top of the wall. The crux is finger size, but the crack widens higher up. Plan on walking off the top.
It is possible to descend from the top of P3 with a single rope. An off route anchor is located below the P2 anchors, which is located on a blank wall.
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