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> Joshua Tree NP
> Wonderland of R…
> Wonderland South
> Central Wonderland
> Butler Corridor
Dysecdysis
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Butler Corridor
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Dysecdysis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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I Saw Daddy Kissing Santa S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Oh Frenchie Wee Wee Gee In September S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Secret of Mother Butler (aka Appetite for Destruction), The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Spot Craft T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Viper, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 733 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Murf on Nov 3, 2008 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This long pitch crosses a large face via an arching left to right crack. Climb the crack with nice jams interspersed with long moves, mostly smearing for feet. About 1/2 way across you encounter the crux, with hard "horizontal laybacking" off a rail. This type of movement continues until you can jam again, almost at the end of the traverse.
Continue climbing (optional large piece) around the corner to easier, but fun climbing up a groove/crack.
The face needs some cleanup, but is mostly solid, not the kitty litter some loose faces have. Due partially to its traversing nature this pitch is quite long.
Continue climbing (optional large piece) around the corner to easier, but fun climbing up a groove/crack.
The face needs some cleanup, but is mostly solid, not the kitty litter some loose faces have. Due partially to its traversing nature this pitch is quite long.
Location
This route is located on the east side of the Butler Corridor. If entering from the North (the best approach) it is the first known route on the left. Start on boulders to the left of the crack, which doesn't quite reach the ground.
Protection
Full rack, doubles in .5 - 2 Camalots, keep a #1 Camalot for the last piece. It's tipped out, but the best thing you can get (5.7 climbing).A #4 Camalot is nice for the end of the traverse.
To descend, go south (climber's right) up and continue to a corridor. Go down the corridor and circle back down to the south end of the Butler corridor.
To descend, go south (climber's right) up and continue to a corridor. Go down the corridor and circle back down to the south end of the Butler corridor.
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