PRINT: Rock Climb Mocos Locos, Santa Fe Area

Mocos Locos

5.11b, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 3 from 23 votes
FA: Rick Bradshaw and Scott Beguin, 2000
New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Early Wall > Runway (Lower Tier)

Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands Details

Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.

Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.

Description

Make a committing move off the block, then up with ground fall potential past a couple more bolts in a left facing corner (bolts are to the right out on the face and difficult to see). Step out of the corner around the arete to the right (crux) and up a slabby section. Continue up the steep face on good holds wandering a bit, mostly right when things get thin. At the anchor, the clipping hold out left is a loose block! be careful. There is a fixed rope to the right of the anchor, presumably to access La Nariz.

Location

Near the low point of the wall starting off a 4-5' tall platform and climbing Very black rock, so the chalk shows up really well.

Protection

Bolts and anchor hooks.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Rick on the first ascent.

Elliott Waldron on "Mocos Locos."

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Rick Bradshaw
Los Alamos, NM

5.11b

FA was by Rick Bradshaw and (correction) Scott Beguin in 2000. I like this route because the holds are sort of ergonomic (we've come to call this type of rock "pillowy basalt") and because it rewards good balance and rhythm (even though I struggle with both). It's worth doing by itself, but combining it with La Naris makes for a somewhat adventurous but rewarding 5.11 outing. Nov 10, 2008

chipacles

5.11b PG13

The first five clips are pretty heady. Making the crux move out of the dihedral and onto the face for (I think) the third clip is scary...falling here could be bad. After the fifth bolt, it's not heady anymore, but you've still got 8 clips to go and it's pretty sustained climbing. Fun route. Jun 1, 2010

AOSR
Green Mnt

5.11b PG13

i agree with chip, a fall above the 3rd bolt (crux section) would be painful. stellar line Jun 1, 2010