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> Past the Hippie Wall
The Monument
5.12+ YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.8 from 6
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Routes in Past the Hippie Wall
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Keep Summer Safe S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Monument, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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She's So Hexy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Kaandorp, Zabrok, De Maio F.F.A. Croft |
| Page Views: | 10,499 total · 54/month |
| Shared By: | chossmonkey on Oct 31, 2008 |
| Admins: | Dave Rone |
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Description
The route EVERYONE wants to do, but it rarely gets done. This nearly horizontal 30 foot roof is massive and split by a fist/hand crack that pinches to fingers just before the lip.
Climb the chossy looking face until it is possible to start using the crack. The rock is more solid than it looks, but use caution.
Climb the easy, slightly overhanging crack up to the roof then take a deep breath before leaning back and seeing how far away the lip looks. After choking back down the vomit, fight the pump and work your way out to the lip. The crux is gaining the lip. Once established at the lip it is easy climbing to the anchor.
The route seeps most of the year and the black rock can be extremely slippery. Once it drys out, the crack usually needs a light brushing the first time out it.
This route is best cleaned by aiding it on toprope. Some people just leave the roof fixed and pinkpoint. Knock at least a letter grade off if you do this.
Climb the chossy looking face until it is possible to start using the crack. The rock is more solid than it looks, but use caution.
Climb the easy, slightly overhanging crack up to the roof then take a deep breath before leaning back and seeing how far away the lip looks. After choking back down the vomit, fight the pump and work your way out to the lip. The crux is gaining the lip. Once established at the lip it is easy climbing to the anchor.
The route seeps most of the year and the black rock can be extremely slippery. Once it drys out, the crack usually needs a light brushing the first time out it.
This route is best cleaned by aiding it on toprope. Some people just leave the roof fixed and pinkpoint. Knock at least a letter grade off if you do this.
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