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Good Excuse

5.9+, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 71 votes
FA: Dan Gettmann, Gavin Ferguson, Lucas Hodgen 10/09/08
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Reservoir Wall
Warning Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. DetailsDrop down

Description

A few thin moves down low to gain the top of the block....and it's hands and big hands to the anchor. Some small loose blocks were removed at the start. The remaining blocks seem to be quite solid. There is a small ledge about half way up that still has some rocks chillin' on it.

Location

The route is approx. 100 yards to the left of Excuse Station. Look for the nice looking corner. It has a few wedged blocks at the start of it. Where the hand crack ends there is a seam that continues through some wavy roofs, the anchor is located to the left of the crack at this point. There is a plaque at the base.

Protection

Gear is #.5 camalot to #3 camalot, mostly #2's and #3's. The anchors are located to the left of the crack where it ends. The chains are visible from the ground (start).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

the crux
[Hide Photo] the crux
Good Excuse 5.9 - Reservoir Wall - Indian Creek
[Hide Photo] Good Excuse 5.9 - Reservoir Wall - Indian Creek
Plaque at the base
[Hide Photo] Plaque at the base
Good Excuse - Reservoir Wall - Indian Creek
[Hide Photo] Good Excuse - Reservoir Wall - Indian Creek
Dan on Good Excuse
[Hide Photo] Dan on Good Excuse

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Eric Klammer
Eagle, CO
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Just a heads up that the starting blocks may not be super solid, definitely take care. My partner was standing on the lowest block and it started to shift downwards an inch or so at a time with a terrible crunching sound until he was able to climb off of it. Not what you want when you're above a ledge with little gear. The top of the climb is awesome though, and well worth the effort. Oct 9, 2014
slim

  5.10a
[Hide Comment] yeah, i thought this one was kind of spooky also. it is really hard not to use the block and it would be bad for the belayer and leader both if it popped. Oct 10, 2014
Keith W
Westminster
  5.9
[Hide Comment] The blocks seemed solid when i did this yesterday. The top section is good quality climbing. Worth the walk over for me. Apr 17, 2017
Mia A
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] This climb offers a mixed adventure starting with a nice jaunt up a loose and sandy ledge up some detached blocks to the start of the climb. Needs to be done more often because the bottom is a bit sandy and dirty.

Getting through the initial section felt kind of like climbing an offwidth. Good gear with small pieces. Used a gray 0.4 bd cam to get through the broken block section which felt kind of sporty. Once you stand on the block you can get some solid hand jams and get some 2 bd cams in. Continue into a hand crack that leads you through a bulge with good holds into a #3 bd splitter crack.

Felt pretty sustained but lots of variety and fun moves. Oct 11, 2022