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Routes in Capitol Gorge
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Capitol Gorgeous T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Classic Handcrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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False Premonitions T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mystery Splitter T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Seamus Chill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Two Out of Three Ain't Bad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unnamed 5.12 T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Ron Olevsky, 1979 |
| Page Views: | 5,787 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | josh holmes on Oct 10, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Permit Required
Details
As of 2020, climbing in Capitol Reef requires a permit: mountainproject.com/forum/t…
Description
A great introduction to desert crack climbing. Start down and left of the crack near a pine tree. Ascend the obvious splitter crack in the wingate slab. The crux is getting past a thin-hands section to the good hand jams and another little cruxy section just before the anchor (bring something like a green or a yellow alien). Originally called 10a, this will feel easier than anything in Indian Creek.
Location
Drive south on the scenic drive past the visitor center and campground. After 8 miles the road will turn to dirt. Drive another 1/2 mile and you will see the obvious splitter hand crack on the right about 200 feet from the road on the left (south) side. There is a pine tree at the base, just left of the crack.
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