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Routes in Y - North Side
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Beastie Crack T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Boy Scout (aka Broadway) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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El Queso Grande T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Flat-footed T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Hard Start TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Herb's Roof T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hessing Route T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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IDBI Wall T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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Inside Dihedral T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Left Mother T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Less-Hard Start T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lizard Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Middle Mother T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Monster T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Nose, The TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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Notch, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Open Book T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Original Open Book T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Porter Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ramp, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Right Mother T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rigid Deffacator T WI3 |
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Triple Overhang T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wisconsin T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Mike Roybal, 1974 |
| Page Views: | 1,534 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Scott Beguin on Oct 4, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
Start with some slick and thin bouldery moves out onto the opening face and then up to a nose overhang with lots of feature, some of which is sharp and slick, to a hangerless bolt (that is to the left about half of the way up). Continue up a very thin and technical face with no pro to the top. For an easier yet fun variation (5.10), start on Wisconsin and move right after about 15' around and up on jugs past the nose, and then continue to the right to gain a crack and arete for some protection and some easier climbing. A top rope is recommended.
This route is supposedly "the state's first 5.12" (source: climbing.com/news/utopian-v…).
This route is supposedly "the state's first 5.12" (source: climbing.com/news/utopian-v…).
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