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The Guardian

5.12d, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 12 votes
FA: Bob Horan & Dan McQuade
Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > Skunk Canyon > Ridge 1 aka Stairway…
Warning Access Issue: 2018 Raptor Closure Lifted DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

The name is perfect. Imagine a burly, tough SOB standing over the trail at the mouth of the canyon, guarding the entrance to the whole Skunk canyon area. As you come out of the creekbed trail, the base of Ridge One is the first rock you encounter. Its lowest downhill face is a 40 feet, severely overhung face covered with honeycombed pockets and pierced by bolts up the line of least resistance.

Negotiate some low angle, suspect, slab to the base of the overhang, clip an upward driven piton, (possibly backup with a second, more trustworthy pin farther in, long sling required) and start pulling yourself up past three bolts to stand up over the lip. The holds are pretty darn awesome, although long moves or pulling on intermediates are required. The crux is just having enough endurance to hang the holds but no real buckets till you clip the third (last) bolt and prepare to go for the top.

Location

This is on the lowest cliff face of Ridge One on the right side of Skunk Canyon. It is the first cliff face encountered on your way into the area.

Protection

2 pins (1 needs double length sling), 3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

BH sending the Guardian.
[Hide Photo] BH sending the Guardian.
The Guardian.
[Hide Photo] The Guardian.
Guarding the canyon.
[Hide Photo] Guarding the canyon.
Side view showing the angle and the pro.
[Hide Photo] Side view showing the angle and the pro.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] The closure sign is on a tree which is beyond this route. Also, the OSMP site bouldercolorado.gov/images/… specifically mentions Ridges 2, 3, 4 but NOT Ridge 1, which is where the Guardian is located.

Checking with a ranger would be prudent, but I believe this climb to not be affected by the closure. Sep 29, 2008
Tom Hanson
[Hide Comment] Bob, These latest photo additions with captions are friggin' sweet!
Now this is what MP.com is all about.
It's great to see these shots.
Keep them coming.
The historical FA info is really fun to read.
Thanks. Dec 4, 2008
George Bracksieck
[Hide Comment] You don't have to have strong hands and fingers to have fun on this route. In the early '90s, I led this by using aid on the fixed hardware and a few hammerless pieces that I placed - and grabbing holds in between each piece. I might have used a hook but no cheater stick. I rated it 5.10 A1. Mar 19, 2014
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] This route is just plain awesome. As I am climbing more and more in the Flatirons, I am realizing there are more and more gems hidden in the plethora of rock formations. This is another one of those ultra classics and probably hasn't seen very many ascents. My buddy Joe Huggins told me an interesting story of the famed Patrick Edlinger onsighting this route, then downclimbing it right before he won the first World Cup Climbing Competition at Snowbird, Utah. At the time, he was the Chris Sharma of climbing. I just recently went up and tried the route and I have to say one word, burlfest! From the ground, all the holds look like jugs and I was expecting an onsight coming off a really hard send of a project. What I realized was the jugs are more like slopey pinches and holding on til the end was a bit harder than expected. Turns out I have to go back cause I left after one session and four burns empty handed. For only being 3 bolts, this thing is full on. Do it and you will probably have climbed one of the steepest sport routes in the Flatirons with a lot of history. It's all that and a bag of chips.... Apr 21, 2014
eddie m
[Hide Comment] Does anyone know if there is still a big ol' wasp nest towards the top of this thing? Last spring it was present near the big jug just before the lip.... Any info would be appreciated. Jul 19, 2016